So here’s the story: My husband and I decided that we’d spend our honeymoon a little differently than most people. We’ll skip the romantic honeymoon packages on breezy Indian islands and go for something much more exciting. We’re touring Australia – as much of it as possible.
Exactly one week after our weekend-long surprise wedding on an island in the breathtaking Quirimbas Archipelago, hubster and I got onto a plane headed to Perth, with a total of 38 kg and four backpacks between the two of us.
Perth is far removed from the desert town we expected. Although Perth is the most remote city in the world, it is trendy and modern, with a good few blocks of high-rise buildings towering over the Swan River – which practically forms the heart of the city. Neat pedestrian trails that line the river are an open invitation to soak up the fresh air, and the winter rains have painted the well-groomed municipal lawns and gardens in all shades of green – a sight for sore eyes.
If you ever do visit Perth, make sure you see Fremantle. The picturesque port town is rich in well-preserved 19th century architecture while trendy shops and cafes line the streets. Whether you like browsing street side shops, watching the crowds from a café with a steaming cuppa, catching up on the local history and viewing the many beautiful buildings or simply chilling at the waterfront at a great local brewery, Fremantle is a place not to be missed.
Unfortunately our short stay in Perth was spent mostly sorting out the boring, though important admin stuff, and we left prematurely for Margaret River, about 270 km south of Perth.
Margaret River is probably one of the biggest towns in Geographe Bay, and an absolute gem. It brings together almost all the best things in life: chocolate, wine, a beautiful 135 km coastal hiking trail, untouched beaches, an enigmatic Karri Tree Forrest, some unexpected limestone caves and a proper laid-back surfer vibe.
In fact, Margaret River is so laid back that we went to bed without dinner on our first nights stay. Not because we’re on an intended diet, but because we got so caught up in photographing the quaint town that we missed the last dinner bell – which was at 8:30 pm. A sleepy town indeed.
So the next morning, right after a bigger breakfast than normal, we set out on our day’s route: Prevelly, the surfer’s paradise.
An untouched beach with waves that surfers’ dreams are made of, Prevelly is quite a one-horse town, with probably not even 50 houses. We saw a total of four cars on the road during the few hours we spent there; most of them proper “˜dude’ mobiles (I’m talking station wagons from 30 years ago, minibuses with friendly drivers and a good few rust spots). Here, character lies in the pure beauty of nature as it’s been for hundreds of years before we got hooked to our smartphones.
The Boranup Karri Forest
We followed the winding road toward Augusta, one moment through neat meadows, fat sheep and grazing cows dotting the green green grass, and the next through a tree wonderland that casts a mesmerising spell. The tall Karri trees are unique and native to the south-western parts of Oz; it’s also the tallest tree in these parts and one of the tallest hardwood tree species in the world. There is something mystical about any forest, but this one truly is magical.
The Jewel Caves is currently one of the biggest limestone caves open to the public in the world, and beyond impressive. If you’re feeling a little on the old side, this might cheer you up: according to our guide, the limestone caves were formed literally hundreds of thousands of years ago, during the last Ice Age. As water continuously ebbed and flowed, and groundwater levels rose and fell, these caves were created. Interestingly, on the scale of mineral hardness limestone isn’t much harder than the human nail. Nature often hides curious coincidences, and the caves have their share of strange encounters. At about 30 m below the Karri tree forest floor, nature has carved its own limestone forest. Rather amazing.
The wines of Margaret River are renowned the world over, and of course we just had to sample a glass or two! Our first stop was Voyager Wine Estate; we were as impressed by the wonderful Cab Sav Merlot 2001 – an absolutely gorgeous Bordeaux blend – as by the perfectly manicured gardens and beautiful Cape Dutch architecture. Luckily Voyager also offers a lovely range of drinkable wines which much better suit the pockets of yours truly, the travellers. Another wine estate worth visiting is Leeuwin Estate. This magnificent property seems to span across the size of an average golf course; with beautiful Karri trees towering over the peacefully perfect gardens.
Another point of interest not to miss is the Margaret River Chocolate Factory. This is every chocolate-lover’s dream come true: hundreds of chocolates in different shapes and sizes, hot and drinkable or truffle style, complete with fine champagne or brandy flavour. You can watch the experts as they make these yummy treats and it’s great for souvenirs. I highly recommend the dark hot chocolate: real 70% dark chocolate chips melted in hot milk, mmm”¦ It’s just dreamy.
Our time in Margaret River and the great Geographe Bay came to an untimely end, much too soon. This magical place has far exceeded our highest expectations, and it won’t take much to get us back here. We’ll just make sure we never miss dinner again.
Next stop: Adelaide, including: the Barossa wine region, Adelaide Hills and Kangaroo Island.
