The birds are only just waking up as I open the door to my room and tiptoe out, careful not to wake the neighbours. The grass is still wet with dew and glistens in the pre-dawn light that has begun to seep up from the horizon. I don’t have shoes on, but I don’t go back inside in Sedgefield on the Garden Route. There’s something magical about walking through wet grass barefoot. It reminds me of childhood, when every hour that I could spare was spent outdoors.
I reach my destination – a weathered teak sun lounger with a perfect view of lake. It and its partner sit nestled under a towering eucalyptus, and I imagine on summer afternoons the dappled shade would provide welcome relief. For now, however, the behemoth stands quietly, the only other witness to the sunrise. I choose the lounger next to the tree and we sit in companionable silence. I think he enjoys my company.
The sun has begun to rise from its resting place on the distant edge of the Swartvlei and with it the bottlebrush to my left comes alive with birds chattering to each other, fluffing out their feathers, and going about their morning constitution. A Piet-my-vrou lets out a shaky ‘piet-my …’ before flying off to find a more appropriate perch, and a drongo eyes me curiously, hopping closer to see if I perhaps have some cheese to spare.
I turn back to the lake, birdsong heavy in the air, and lean back in the sun lounger, tucking my feet up underneath me, a breath of a smile on my face. So this is what peace feels like.
And there I remain, listening to the birds and watching the mist rise off the lake surface, until the sun has risen fully and I begin to hear the sounds of the lodge behind me waking up. I get up, the urge for caffeine overpowering the misty waters of the Swartvlei and wander back through the grass to the main house in search of coffee. ‘Don’t forget the cheese!’ calls the drongo, hopping on the seat I’d just vacated, to see if I’d misplaced some.
Lakeside Lodge, nestled on the banks of the Swartvlei, just outside of Sedgefield, has many things going for it. There’s:
- The friendly feel-like-you’re-an-old-friend service
- The freshly baked muffins and poached eggs if you choose the bed & breakfast option
- The giant bath and a rainfall shower. I really wished I was dirtier, so I could enjoy them more
- The rooms, each individually and beautifully decorated, with curtains so thick you’d think it was still night even if you woke up at 11am (a big plus in my book)
- The full sized billiard table. Full sized! Who knew it could be that big. I couldn’t even see the balls at the end. It was the size of a small caravan. Or a large SUV. (Yes, I realise that entire sentence is a ‘That’s what she said’ joke, but really, billiards. Who knew)
- Canoes for rowing off into the distance
- Swimming in the lake (or the pool if you’ve watched Lake Placid one too many times)
- Bird-watching, and boy are there loads of birds
- Tiny numbered flags dotted all around the property that, on closer inspection, turned out to be a secret and very lovely mashie golf course.
- Tennis courts beneath towering pine trees that creaked in the wind like supporters at Wimbledon (old, very old)
- Braai facilities and, if you don’t feel like leaving the lakeside, you can even buy a braai pack – complete with everything you need.
But mostly there’s the lake
Growing up in the Garden Route, I spent a lot of time in and around the Swartvlei. The sound of the cola coloured waters – filled to the brim with tannins – lapping against the white sandy shore. The mournful bleating of Coots, if we wandered too close to their reedy nests. The unsuccessful fishing attempts, where I secretly hoped I wouldn’t catch anything, and then felt sad when I didn’t. The time Roanna capsized our boat after we had managed to get almost all the way to the mouth. And my high school holiday job at Pine Lake Marina, where I was in charge of tractor rides, milkshakes, treasure hunts and New Year’s parties. Not a bad gig for the summer. But even after all those long, damp, summery days, I still don’t think I’ve seen a better view of the Swartvlei than the one I found at Lakeside Lodge.
I could use many clichéd words to describe my visit: tranquil, serene, relaxing, calming, soothing, and while all of them would be true, that’s just not me. To me, my visit felt like the end of a long, hot Indian summer day, where the cicadas chirped and the breeze blew lazily around Roanna and I as we raced our bikes up and down the dirt roads, stopping only to raid puddles of their potential tadpole bounty. It felt like childhood. Fleeting – but wonderful.
Lakeside Lodge
Lakeside Lodge is a four star lodge and offers both bed & breakfast and self-catering options. For those choosing bed & breakfast option (like me), the rates are very reasonable. Double rooms are R660 (standard), R770 (superior) or R950 (luxury) per room per night. Self-catering rates are cheaper and the rooms come complete with kitchenette. There is also a self-catering house on the property. Far removed from the main lodge, down near the jetty at the edge of the lake, ‘Vista Largo‘ (lake view) is a completely contained five bedroom house that sleeps a maximum of 16 people. Prices range from R1500 – R2500 per night and it even has a foosball table! Perfect for a family reunion.
Reasons to visit Sedgefield
Sedgefield Slow Festival: 5- 9 April
Southern Cross 3 day trail run: 27 – 29 April
Knysna Oyster Festival: 6 – 15 July – while the Oyster festival is awesome, Knysna does get very crowded and accomodation prices skyrocket. Sedgefield is only 24km down the N2 from Knysna, so consider Lakeside Lodge if you haven’t booked accommodation yet.
But do you really need a reason? It’s the Garden Route!
