With the car packed with tents, biltong and beer, my father and I headed up the KZN coast with a mission: to find its best, lesser-known beaches for Getaway’s February 2016 issue.
So first, a bit of background to our route: it turns out that anything north of Richards Bay is basically inside the iSimangaliso Wetland Park; a huge chunk of northern KZN’s coastline, boasting some of its best beaches. In an effort to make it a story about northern KZN and not just iSimangaliso, we restricted ourselves to the lesser visited beaches within iSimangaliso and – begrudgingly – left out spots like Mabibi, St Lucia and Cape Vidal.
Our road trip started from Kosi Mouth, following the coastal D1850 sand road south past Black Rock, Rocktail Bay, Lala Nek and Island Rock. From there we headed inland back towards the N2, then cut back to the coast to reach Mapelane and a scattering of beaches north of Richards Bay. From there we continued down the coast, past Amatigulu Nature Reserve, Mtunzini and lastly Christmas Bay in Ballito. What we found was deserted bay after deserted bay, glittering water, vibrant fish life, a myriad of fun 4×4 paths and very affordable accommodation prices.
And now, I know some of you are wondering about safety at these remote beaches. We didn’t have any issues along the way, but stories did reach our ears. Cars have been broken into as people enjoy the shores, and I really encourage you to go in a group. Hire a guard from where you are staying to look after your vehicle, and then with an easy heart, immerse yourself in the solitude and clear waters that await, for as long as you desire.
You can read more about these captivating beaches – with GPS points included – in the February 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.
The closest access to Kosi Mouth is found at Utshwayelo Lodge, 2.5km from the beach.
The bay of Black Rock, a gentle curve shared only with a handful of fishermen.
The clear waters of Lala Nek.
Lala Nek, my favourite beach of the trip, with warm water and empty shores.
We kept to the D1850 road, hugging the coastline south from Kosi Bay.
The drive to Mapelane Nature Reserve was through serene forest, hornbills swooping overhead.
Thick coastal dune forest, part of a rehabilitation programme just north of Richards Bay.
Umlalazi Nature Reserve, in the small town of Mtunzini.
The beaches of Umlalazi Nature Reserve.
Dark green forest reaches towards the empty beaches of Amatigulu Nature Reserve. You can paddle across the lagoon to get to the beach, crossing paths with leaping fish along the way.
Getting closer to Durban, we stopped at Zinkwazi beach for a pizza. It’s one of the more well-known options on this list but between the sea and estuary, your dogs and kids will thank you.
Christmas Bay is the quieter of Ballito’s beaches, under an hour from Durban.
Read the full article in the February 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.
Our February issue is all about wild family bonding experiences. Discover why Kaokoland is great for a grown-up family holiday.
