Probably best described as a gentle assault on the senses – gentle because there’s nothing aggressive about Bali – the physical effect it has is instantaneous.
Bali as a whole is both exactly as you’d expect it to be, and much more. There are the iconic island motifs – palm trees, rice terraces, impossibly-blue seascapes, food-thieving monkeys. But there are also some unexpected anomalies, such as how oddly prolific Italian food is, and the occasional Afrikaans-sounding word on signage (a relic from the Dutch East Indies in the early 1800s).
Image credit: Getty Images
Things to do in Bali
Swim at a waterfall. The big ones are in northern Bali (and swamped with tourists), but there are a few quieter falls near Ubud – put Tekad Cepung, Tegenungan and Tibumana on your list. Most drivers know where to find them; 10,000 rupiahs (R9) gives you access.
Strike a pose. The Yoga Barn and Yoga Centre have an array of classes and courses, from aerial yoga, to Ashtanga, to sound meditations. A drop-in class costs around R120.
Visit a rice terrace. Tegallalang near Ubud is one of the most picturesque of these. Drivers will know where the rice paddies are – once there, you pay a donation (same as at the waterfalls).
Have a pool day. Jungle Fish and Folk Pool & Gardens Ubud offer access to gorgeous swimming pools with a bar and lounge area for about R140 per person. chapung.com, folkubud.com
Go for sundowners or high tea. The Four Seasons Sayan hotel has a terrace perched above the jungle – it’s a scenic and stylish spot, if a little pricey. fourseasons.com
Head south. Uluwatu is famous for surfing (and the Pura Luhur temple); Seminyak and Canggu offer shopping, beach bars and nightlife.
Go island-hopping. The Gili Islands (off the northwest coast of neighbouring Lombok) have epic beaches and calm, crystal waters, ideal for diving or snorkelling. A fast boat to Gili Air from Padang Bai costs around R600 pp ($42 per person). gilibookings.com The Nusa Islands are closer (just off the east coast of Bali) with good surfing, diving (with rays at Manta Point) and cliff-jumping at Mahana Point. Take the Scoot or Rocky fast boats from Sanur (around R255 per person).
Image credit: Julia Freemantle
Stay here
Kakul Villa is slightly out of the centre of Ubud, and is the villa Unsettled organised for us. It has serviced suites, some with a kitchenette and larger bungalows, plus a pool, spa and restaurant. Suites from R560 (600,000 rupiahs). kakulvillaubud.com
Bambu Indah in Ubud is a good choice for boutique eco-design, with 17 unique houses (most sleep two, max six). The resort offers Balinese food and cultural experiences. From R1,350 B&B ($95) for a one-sleeper. bambuindah.com
Mola2 Resort and Captain Coconuts on Gili Air are easy-breezy, affordable island escapes. Budget about R300 per person sharing. dafamhotels.com, captaincoconutsgili.blogspot.com
Sangeh’s Pura Tirta Empul is a sacred water temple complex, famous for its holy spring water that draws visitors from around the world. Image Credit: Barbara de la Pena
Getting around
Renting a scooter costs about R90 a day. It’s the most efficient way to get around as traffic is chaotic, but if you’re nervous, use taxis – it cost me about R120 a day. There are companies (Blue Bird is quite prolific) and independent drivers – find one you like and stick with him; he’s more likely to offer a good rate. Go-Jek is an app (like Uber) that finds you a ride in cars or on motorbikes. It’s cheaper but drivers aren’t always available.
Need to know
South Africans do not need a visa to visit Bali for up to 30 days. If you plan to stay longer, apply for a visa on arrival at the airport. Plastic waste is a huge problem in Bali, so bring a reusable water bottle with you. Most shops, restaurants and cafes have free water-refilling stations.
Occupants of the Ubud Monkey Forest, a sanctuary for Balinese long-tailed monkeys, often wander around town – and snatch unguarded snacks from people in the street. Image credit: Barbara de la Pena
Eat here (In Ubud)
At the warungs, try local dishes such as gado gado (rice and veg with peanut sauce), bebek (duck) and lak lak (pancakes).
Tukies Coconut Shop’s ice cream will change your life – served with fresh and toasted coconut and coconut sugar. It’s on Jalan Raya Ubud, the main street.
Clear Café serves ‘clean’, delicious, locally-sourced food in a happy, designer space. clearcafebali.com
Room 4 Dessert creates memorable puddings using unusual Asian ingredients, plus there are cocktails, mocktails and fine wines by the glass. room4dessert.asia
A modern take on klepon, a palm-sugar dumpling, with beetroot and pumpkin seed, at Ubud’s speciality dessert eatery.
Getting there
Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Qatar Airways and Singapore Airlines fly to Denpasar from Joburg and Cape Town. The taxi from the airport to Ubud should be around R280 (300,000 rupiahs).
Travel packages including flights, accommodation, meals and transfers are also a great way to get to Bali. Enquire here.
Text and images: Julia Freemantle
