Adding skippering talents to his skill set, Ryan Enslin heads down to the Vaal River for some time out on a houseboat, and learns that often the best view is from astern.
Looking for a last-minute, low admin escape from the City of Gold this weekend? I found a rather special jaunt, ideal for weekend getaways, on the third largest river in South Africa. What’s best, it’s just an hour’s drive from Joburg.
Yip, I’m suggesting you spend the weekend on a houseboat sailing along the Vaal River.
The idea of a houseboat has always seemed rather European to me, something one undertook while exploring the canals and waterways of France, or some other exotic location. Long, lazy afternoons mooring your vessel, on a mere whim, at any number of quays that spark your fancy, from morning coffee to indulgent lunches and perhaps a drink with fellow skippers at sunset.
The same experience awaits you in glorious South Africa, along the Vaal River. I recently jumped into my car, headed south out of Joburg and took control of a self-drive, self-catering houseboat named Darter, owned and operated by local charter company Old Willow No 7.
All you need is a valid driving licence
Never skippered a river-going vessel before? No need to stress, neither had I until I stepped foot on Darter. All you need is a valid driving licence and a sense of adventure. Jessica from Old Willow took me through a comprehensive induction before handing over the keys and issued me with a temporary skipper’s license for my time on the boat.
I would suggest that you do a quick practice round of mooring the boat with the staff on hand to guide you. It’s one thing understanding in theory how to do this, especially reverse parking the boat (you’ll have to excuse my lack of technical boating terminology), doing it in real life is quite another thing.
Skippering the boat is actually quite easy and I quickly got the hang of it. It’s just like driving a car, except there are no wheels and you float on water. Oh, and you drive on the righthand side of the river. You see, just like being in France. Except not.
Lunch here
The Vaal River doesn’t offer too many stop-off attractions, but there are some rather interesting spots on offer. Lunch at Stonehaven on Vaal truly hit the spot, having built up a hunger thanks to an overload of new experiences.
Picture: Stonehaven on Vaal
Situated on the banks of the Vaal River and complete with lush green lawns, Stonehaven is touted as the largest al fresco garden restaurant in South Africa. With a variety of fare on offer, from pub-grub to more substantial restaurant-level cuisine, if the boat does not relax you, this spot will.
It’s quite a thrilling experience – finishing lunch, jumping back onto the boat, and taking off on a new riverine adventure. Just remember to untie your vessel before you do so.
The less-is-more approach
Having stopped off for lunch, I soon realised that the true beauty of a self-drive houseboat experience is actually in the unplanned meandering along the river. Find a spot, drop anchor and take in the surroundings.
Jessica handed me a detailed map as part of my induction, and was on hand to point out interesting stops along the river, many of which didn’t require mooring. She also gave me indications of time to reach many of these points. I would suggest you travel to the first point and match your speed to the time she indicates, to ensure you are not travelling too fast, or too slowly.
Speed translates into fuel consumption and while there is spare fuel on board, the cost of fuel used is for your account. Also, travelling along the river after dark is not allowed, so you will want to identify your overnight spot at the beginning of your journey, and ensure you arrive there well before sunset.
Sunset on the Vaal River
My overnight spot was Bird Island. You can’t moor the boat here but rather drive slowly and nose first, into the reeds. Then hotfoot it to the front of the boat, grab hold of a handful of reeds (in boating terms that’s around 10) and tie the front lines of the boat (that’s the ropes) around the reeds.
This manoeuvre took a few attempts because if you head into the reeds too fast, they effectively bounce the boat backwards, meaning that by the time you have shimmied to the front, the reeds are no longer within reach. But I got it right on the second attempt.
And wow, was it worth it! With the stern (rear of the boat) facing the setting African sun, I lit up the small braai on board and drank in the beauty that is our country.
I spent a reflective evening on the boat, sitting long into the night absorbing this tranquil space, well removed from the hectic pace of life, not far beyond the banks of the river. For that evening, all was well with my soul.
Great for family getaways
The houseboat can accommodate five people – three in the front bedroom cabin and two in the dining area, the table of which collapses into a double bed. It’s tight, but the experience is well worth it. The boat also has shower and toilet facilities onboard. Ask Jessica about Family Creek and Otters Cove or perhaps Eagles Inlet. These spots along the river are ideal for throwing anchor and spending some quality time together as a family. Just don’t throw anchor anywhere near the reeds, that’s a big no-no.
Kids can swim in the river and there are ample fish for the angler at heart, ranging from carp to barbel and some yellow fish. Looking for a bit of a spoil, Vaal River Lodge, a 20-minute ride from the Old Willow jetty, offers a spa for some riverside indulgence.
I found the River Palace to be a great late afternoon stop for a drink with fellow houseboaters. With a beach setup on the banks of the river, it’s a great place for the kids to run around as you swop boating stories with fellow travellers.
Prices at Old Willow No 7 start from R1 295 per weekend night for two people (R1 095 per weeknight for two people) during the low season, with all fuel used for your account. Fuel is charged at R550 for 25 litres, but only for the portion you use.
Day charters, from 11am to 5pm are also available at a cost of R1 500, a maximum of six people can be accommodated on such an excursion.
Call Old Willow on +27 83 391 4884 or email Jessica at [email protected].
Follow more of Ryan’s adventures in and around Joburg here.
Pictures: Ryan Enslin
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