Nestled within the vast embrace of the Western Cape, De Hoop Nature Reserve stands out as a beacon of natural beauty and biodiversity. Anton Crone delves deep, offering readers a captivating insight into this sanctuary.
Please note: We’ve included the prices as a guideline – but although they were correct at the time of travel, they’re liable to change at the owner’s discretion. Please confirm with individual establishments before booking.
Witnessing the Giants of the Land and Sky
As the heart of South Africa’s mesmerising landscape pulsated, a lone vulture’s wings cast a fleeting shadow over the shimmering blues of De Hoop’s coastal waters. Below, life unfurled in many ways, from the rhythmic dance of southern right whales to the gentle nurturing of their young.
Moving beyond the water, the narrative shifted. The golden sands of De Hoop, celebrated for their allure, shaped towering dunes that murmured of bygone eras. These dunes bore silent testament to dense coastal forests and vibrant fynbos, creating a mesmerizing blend of wild terrains and cultivated farmlands. The distant snow-capped peaks added a touch of majesty.
Over at Potberg, nature offered yet another spectacle. The sky danced with the graceful flight of Cape vultures, riding the thermals in perfect harmony. The cliffs nearby had held secrets of their own, sheltering a growing colony of these magnificent birds—a beacon of hope in a world where their kind faced the perils of extinction.
A Step Back into Time
Yet, De Hoop’s tales hadn’t just been of nature. They had also been of history and humanity. Stone Age footprints had echoed in the sands, and the caves had held remnants of a time when early humans had sought shelter and left behind artifacts, like the ochre crayon-marked rock, that had reshaped our understanding of human evolution.
Nestled amidst this natural splendor had been the De Hoop Collection. These lodgings had whispered tales of yesteryears, of grand homes and families that had once graced their halls. The golden hour had seen the land bathed in a warm glow, with eland herds grazing peacefully, their mighty forms silhouetted against the setting sun. As night had approached, William Stephens, a man deeply rooted in this land, had unveiled another of De Hoop’s treasures—a wine collection that had spoken of the region’s rich vinicultural heritage. Each sip had been a journey, a dance of flavors that had celebrated the land and its stories.
On the opposite bank of the vlei had stood the Melkkamer Manor House, Vlei Cottage, and Foreman’s Cottage. Their golden sandstone walls, which dated back to the late 1800s, were available to self-catering guests. That had been our view from our cottage above the vlei as we had relaxed, watching the sun set over the mouth of the estuary. We had heard a Cape zebra tugging at the grass behind us, reminding us that dinner awaited at the Fig Tree restaurant.
Through a door in the back of the restaurant, William had guided us into the original farmstead grain silo, which was by then a cellar, where renowned wines from the nearby valleys surrounded us.
Credit: De Hoop Collection
What to do in De Hoop
1. Whale watching
The high vantage point of the dunes at Koppie Alleen allows guests and day visitors to observe southern right whales tending to their calves. Between June and November during the winter, whales can be seen.
Views from Koppie Alleen of the world’s biggest whale nursery.
2. Guided Vulture Experience
For a guided tour of the Vulture Deck on Potberg, guests and day visitors can make reservations. From there, they can watch Cape vultures soar overhead. It will take you an hour or more to hike to the deck. The price includes a picnic basket. Required in advance (about three hours).
Contact: Tel 021 422 4522, www.dehoopcollection.com
A Cape vulture swoops at height above De Hoop Nature Reserve.
3. Hike, run and MTB
De Hoop’s various biomes on five designated trails, ranging in length from 13 km to 55 km, on any kind of terrain you like. Bring your own wheels and, if you’d rather, hire a guide.
Contact: Tel 021 422 4522, www.dehoopcollection.com
4. The Whale Trail
There are five convenient overnight stops along the 55-kilometer route from Potberg to Koppie Alleen in this amazing reserve. Reservations can only be made in groups of six or twelve.
Contact: Tel 087 087 8250, www.capenature.co.za
Where to eat near De Hoop
1. Fig Tree Restaurant
The Fig Tree Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, supper, snacks, teas & coffees, and cakes. It is licenced and open all day.
Contact: Tel 028 542 1253
2. The Bush Pub
The bustling noises of city life fade away as you sit alongside the tranquil Breede River in the lush landscapes of the Western Cape. This tranquil setting, with its panoramic vistas and abundant bird calls, is ideal for relaxing with a cold beverage and reconnecting with loved ones.
Contact: Tel 044 695 2078, www.baruchscoffee.co.za
Accommodation in De Hoop
1. De Hoop Collection
In a secluded corner of the Cape, this location is a breathtaking gem. Overlooking the vlei and its environs, the vista is truly unique. The chalets, reflecting the Cape Dutch architecture, seamlessly blend with the surroundings. Our stay was tranquil and restorative. A trip to the pristine beach is a must; and if fortune favors, one might even witness Secretary Birds meandering amidst the fynbos. Highly recommended.
Price: From R3,820 per night
Contact: Tel 021 422 4522, www.dehoopcollection.com
2. De Hoop Nature Reserve campsite
Tucked amidst nature, the camping spots offer varied atmospheres, from sun-kissed clearings to dappled shade. While the grounds have a natural touch without manicured lawns, the amenities don’t disappoint. The shared facilities boast pristine washrooms and a well-equipped communal kitchen space. For those seeking a refreshing dip, a pool offering breathtaking vistas of the vlei awaits, just a short stroll away. Though a bit of a drive, the beach promises a delightful excursion.
Price: From R1,632 per night
Contact: Tel 021 422 4522, www.dehoopcollection.com
3. Morukuru Family De Hoop
Nestled within the embrace of De Hoop Nature Reserve, this haven is not just a retreat but a soulful journey. At Morukuru Family De Hoop, there’s a sense of homecoming, an immersion into nature where time seems to pause, and everyday worries fade into insignificance. The journey, marked by a meandering sandy trail set against a backdrop of pristine shoreline and rich fynbos, sets the tone. It’s not just the tranquillity but an indescribable feeling that needs to be personally felt to be truly understood.
Price: From R12,800 per night
Contact: Tel 011 615 4303, www.morukuru.com
This article first appeared in the March 2022 issue of Getaway Magazine.
Words by Anton Crone
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