Small Town Spotlight: Matjiesfontein

Posted on 24 October 2024 By Nelson Kalula

Matjiesfontein, named after the “matjiesgoed” plant once used for weaving mats, holds a complex history. Like much of the surrounding region, including the nearby “Moordenaarskaroo” (Murderers’ Karoo), it witnessed conflict between European settlers and the Khoi and San. One account from Lawrence Green’s Karoo tells of how a farmer named Coetzee and his family were killed by slaves and Bushmen. His wife was captured but rescued by a commando led by Veldkornet Nel, just as the Bushmen were about to execute her. The fate of the Bushmen remains a mystery.

Today, Matjiesfontein is a restored Victorian village in the Central Karoo, nestled between the Witteberge (White Mountains) and Swartberg (Black Mountains). Once an outpost on the Cape-to-Cairo route, it retains a distinctly colonial feel, with the Union Jack still flying by the roadside. Most of the village’s buildings belong to the Lord Milner Hotel, adding to its old-world charm. It has become a popular stop for travellers heading further into South Africa’s interior.

Visitors can take a walk along the village’s single main road, lined with restored colonial-era buildings. Opposite stands the Matjiesfontein railway station, home to South Africa’s largest private museum, offering a look into life in the late 19th century. A red London double-decker bus shuttles guests around, adding a quirky touch to this historical village, which is a must-see for those travelling between Cape Town and the interior.

The Lord Milner Hotel in Matjiesfontein

The Lord Milner Hotel in Matjiesfontein.

Don’t miss local spots like The Lord Milner Hotel (023 561 3011), The Laird’s Arms (023 561 3011) and The Coffee House (023 561 3011).

Matjiesfontein Museums

At Matjiesfontein’s museums, history feels alive, with displays that take visitors back 120 years to life in this colonial outpost. The Transport Museum, located on the village’s edge, showcases vintage cars from the 1930s to the 1960s, including Chevys, Dodges, a Jaguar MK8, and two Royal Daimlers from King George VI’s 1947 South African tour with Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret. The collection also features antique bicycles, a London bus, and a steam train with carriages open for exploration.

The Marie Rawdon Museum, situated at the train station, holds an extensive collection of Victoriana. Curated by David Rawdon, the museum displays personal items, war memorabilia, and even some of Emma Logan’s dresses. The exhibits include old letters, children’s toys, medical tools, and a fully-stocked apothecary. With such an array of artefacts, it might take more than one visit to appreciate everything.

At the Railway Museum, visitors can step into the station master’s office and original signal room, dating back to the late 1800s. It’s part of Matjiesfontein’s rich history, housing relics that offer a glimpse into the village’s past.

Matjiesfontein Space Site

partnership in 2022 by establishing a communications facility in Matjiesfontein. On 8 November 2022, NASA’s Badri Younes joined SANSA officials for the groundbreaking ceremony.

This followed the signing of a Letter of Intent between NASA and the South African Department of Science and Innovation to formalise their collaboration. The Matjiesfontein facility, located about 240 kilometres northeast of Cape Town, became one of only three global sites with 18- to 24-metre communication antennas, ensuring near-continuous communication for the Artemis missions to the Moon.

Matjiesfontein’s low radio interference and favourable weather conditions made it a prime location for this facility. In addition to supporting space exploration, the project provided economic benefits to the local community.

What to do in Matjiesfontein:

The Coffee House

Logan’s General Store, which opened in 1888, is now the Coffee House. Visitors to Matjiesfontein’s main street may stop here for substantial breakfasts, light lunches, and delectable baked goodies. It’s a laid-back location for a quick lunch or a mid-morning coffee, serving delicious scones, cakes, and koeksisters. The main structure leads onto a magnificent courtyard with fountains and a pond.

The Laird’s Arms

The Laird’s Arms, located next to the Lord Milner Hotel, provides a cosy pub setting for a pint or lunch. Pub meals are offered everyday from 12:00 to 14:30. Unfortunately, John Theunissen, the heart of the bar, died in 2024. His warm welcome and vibrant personality will be missed, particularly his bugle call for the red bus tour and sing-alongs that made everyone grin.

The Railway Station

Walking along the railway line in Matjiesfontein at sunrise

Walking along the railway line in Matjiesfontein at sunrise.

The name “Matjiesfontein” derives from a variety of sedge used by the Khoekhoen to make mats. The old station opened on February 1, 1878, and Logan took over the refreshment rooms in 1884. The existing Victorian structure, which opened in December 1890, includes intriguing legends, such as the Jamieson Raid reformers who hid out here in 1896 and were fed with whisky by Logan. Nearby, the Marie Rawdon Museum has artefacts from the village’s history during the South African War.

Court House and Jail

Matjiesfontein is where Commandant Gideon Scheepers recuperated after his captivity in 1901. He underwent a high-profile trial for war crimes and was sentenced to death. The prison, which has two cells and an exercise yard, lies near the river and previously housed David Rawdon, the later Laird.

British Army Remount Camp

Over 10,000 infantry and 20,000 horses used the area in front of the railway station as a parade ground during the British remount campsite about 1900. Acting as the Cape Command Headquarters and field hospital, the Lord Milner Notable military leaders housed here included General Haig. Visitors can stroll over the veld today in search of traces of this past.

Where to stay

The Lord Milner Hotel

Source: Facebook / @The Lord Milner, Matjiesfontein

The Lord Milner Hotel is the only place to stay in Matjiesfontein, but there are guest farms and nature reserves nearby. The hotel’s dining room reflects the village’s historic charm, complete with period antiques and a rare clock—one of only three in the world. The wooden ceiling, supported by an ornate cast iron pillar, has a counterpart at Buckingham Palace, Queen Elizabeth’s residence. The menu focusses on Karoo cuisine, particularly Karoo lamb. Waitresses wear open bonnets during the day and closed ones at night, much like sunflowers.

From R2,000 pn

*Rates may vary according to season/number of people

Address: Matjiesfontein Ave, Matjiesfontein, 6901

023 561 3011, Lord Milner Hotel (Matjiesfontein)

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