Titanic Rock, an epic, jutting cliff, salutes you as you enter Clarens. Mountain ranges wrap around you from left and right. This small town’s beauty is awe-inspiring. It is chock-full of picturesque views, good food and drinks, and a bounty of art galleries and artisanal shops. It is no wonder creative souls find inspiration and solace in the jewel of the Free State, writes Werner Labuscagne.
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A highlight of any visit to Clarens is the surrounding wilderness. It is the closest town to the Golden Gate Highlands National Park, named after its sandstone cliffs’ golden hues. It feels most fitting when the sun settles behind the hilltops, bathing everything in golden light.
This site is archaeologically and geologically significant due to dinosaur fossils and San art discovered there. Of many ways to explore the park, you can’t go wrong by attempting a few of its famous hikes.
We hiked relatively easy, well-marked routes that took an hour or two to complete at a leisurely pace. A baboon welcomed us, sitting squarely in the middle of a wooden bridge leading to our first trail, but left us after we cautiously approached, presumably to greet other guests. We nearly missed a herd of fulsome blesbok on our ascent, as bare trees had neatly camouflaged their horns. Ultimately, we were the ones who felt spotted, as their stoic stares seemed to follow us.
The Echo Ravine trail took us to a long, rocky valley where time had violently divided the ancient mountain. Two tall cliffs stretched overhead to enfold us, save for a crack, far above our heads, from which the bright sun beat through. They seemed to sing back every word we spoke. ‘Are we the only people in the world right now?’ my partner asked me while a soft breeze amplified into a chill that whistled through the tunnel.
Holkrans Hiking Trail is slightly more challenging, as you must climb a wooden ladder to reach a cave high on a cliff face. But we had a bird’s-eye view of a black wildebeest dashing across the landscape at an incredible speed to catch up to his herd. They momentarily scattered when he finally hit the brakes. Once you’ve braved it up the ladder, the cave’s arch frames your view of the landscape. The solace of being encased by the mountain urges you to be still and reflect.
If these hikes sound too challenging, enjoy a self-drive game drive that loops around parts of the park, taking you right to its most precious outlooks. When you spend enough time in quiet reflection at these viewpoints surrounded by abundant beauty, you realise why artists flock to Clarens.
Delight your senses
Clarens is a passionate town that prioritises good food and drink. There are plenty of exciting dining options. Unless you’re lighting up a braai, we recommend dining out at the town’s culinary treasures as much as possible.
We loved breakfasting at Sugar and Cinnamon. They serve heavenly fare on a spacious stoep looking out at the mountains. Enjoy their sweet or savoury pannekoeke (pancakes) while convincing yourself you’ll hike off the kilojoules. Their rescue dog, Soekie, will lounge by your table and walk you back to your car. You also can’t go wrong with The Artist’s Cafe, a popular spot in the centre of the town where you can watch locals and tourists passing through in high spirits. We enjoyed their kamp koffie, a strong coffee heavily sweetened with condensed milk, and pillowy Belgian waffles with a decadent chocolate mousse.
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The boozy lunch crowd will delight in Clarens Brewery’s sensory onslaught. With many craft beers and gin and tonics on tap, we immediately ordered three tasting boards, making a game of comparing flavour notes. But the menu excited us most, promising so much sensational food that a single visit didn’t feel like enough. All their pub bites are elevated versions of bar food made with their craft beers. Enjoy a traditional German pretzel with a cheesy beer sauce made with Pilsner, or chicken wings basted in a rich, sticky red ale sauce. Our highlight for this meal was their pulled oxtail magwenya, with tender oxtail slowly braised in their Indian pale ale, stuffed inside crispy, plush vetkoek. Remember that you’re on holiday, meaning you will find room for dessert. Try their chilli-chocolate brownie, made with stout beer, over a churro crust.
We enjoyed an intimate dinner at Clementines. This upmarket restaurant is in an old bus service maintenance shed. Its corrugated iron walls speak to its rustic charm and farm-style atmosphere. I wolfed down a succulent ostrich fillet with a dark berry sauce while my partner tucked into their warm, hearty chicken pot pie. For dessert, we couldn’t resist their peanut butter ice cream with butterscotch sauce, served in a filo basket. Throughout our meal, we admired the town’s art on display, the centrepiece of which is a painting by Collett Louw in tribute to the town’s favourite calico cat, whose name is also Clementine. In the corner, atop a cabinet where Clemie used to lounge, now sits a statue made of her ashes, overseeing the patrons. Maybe we are more like the Ancient Egyptians than we thought, making shrines for our beloved kitties. In Clemie’s honour, the restaurant and its diners have raised half a million rand for the Cluny Animal Trust, a veterinary welfare organisation.
Take Clarens home with you
This small town is a haven for shopaholics. But we’re not talking about big-brand mall crawling. Instead, every entrepreneur fills their little shop with their identity and style. Whether you’re looking for fine jewellery, leather clothing, restored antique furniture or gemstone sculptures, each store is a few steps away from the next. Ambitious artisans who you get to support directly run them all.
Clarens is also famous for being a refuge for solitary artists needing peace to indulge in their craft. Popping into these different artist-owned galleries, you see many love letters to the town of Clarens, with the town’s signature windmill, idyllic mountains against a clear blue sky and, usually, a sleepy flock of sheep.
Article published in the October 2025 issue of Getaway Magazine. Find us on shelves for more!
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