So Kariba is controversial, for sure. Not only because of the Batonka resettlement, but also because there’s talk that the dam wall is being reinforced continuously with concrete. I don’t want to think of the consequences of a burst dam wall. We can say goodbye to most of south eastern Africa if the Zambezi breaks through!
But the dam is undeniably beautiful, and has created plenty of opportunity for both man and animal. The vast water line of the 281 km-long and 40km-wide dam provides plenty of grazing and water for animals, which has consequently opened up plenty of opportunities for tourism. But of course, this is Zimbabwe, and tourism is nowhere near where it should be, especially in this part of the country.
So it was surprising to come across the fantastic Masumu River Lodge a few kms outside Binga. I needed to find a place to sleep for the night, before I boarded the Lady J houseboat, which was docked at the water frontage of Masumu. Brett MacDonald of Lady J was only meeting me the next day, so instead of staying on the boat, I checked out the lodge.
Isolated on a hill at the end of a peninsula on the lake, Masumu offers comfortable, basic, clean accommodation and food, all in a spectacular setting. It was recently taken over by a group of new investors, and is run by the super friendly and efficient Allan and Elena Hein and their staff. There are 6 double rooms (R600 to R950 per person per day) and 3 self-catering rooms (R300 per person per day) that sleep 4 people each. If you pay R50 extra in the self-catering chalets, you can get your own chef to cook for you. All have good views down over the lake. There are also 5 campsites with ablutions.
Masumu is a great place to go fishing…and Allan will take you out on the Lodge’s boat to make sure you catch good tigerfish and bream! Otherwise, just sit and relax in the lounge or the outdoor bar, and enjoy the great views. Masumu (Batonka for “spear”) was a great surprise, and is well worth a visit.
Allan told me how his previous job was based in Iraq for 5years, as a bodyguard for US Engineers. Well, he’s smiling from ear to ear at the moment, and it must be because he’s swapped the desert dust and bullets for some of some special natural African scenery and fishing hooks of Lake Kariba. I imagine that even Zimbabwe is paradise compared to Iraq.
I noticed this entry in the guest book, which was entered by a bunch of young fishermen who had pitched up in the area, expecting nothing, but landing up at Masumu.
“18/10/09 – This was our best experience of any lodge, any place in Africa!!! You are the nicest people/managers we’ve ever come across!!! God bless you and we all hope to the persons you are one day when we grow up. – Willie, Gustav, Ponkie, Leon, FR (Potch).”
Get hold of Masumu Lodge on [email protected] or call +263-91-349-4903.
