Watching the sun rising over Pomene‘s palm fringed shoreline, it felt as though we had woken up in a Bounty chocolate advertisement. Mozambique – what a paradise! The night before, under barely an eyelash of winking moon, we had rolled in over the dunes towards our friend Pat’s remote reed-walled hideaway. The morning’s rays brought straight-backed locals balancing baskets of vegetables, fruit and warm pão (bread) on their heads for us to buy.