I explored Lesotho on an offorad 4×4 adventure recently for an article in the June issue. Here are my routes with GPS co-ordinates.
All these routes were all passable in a 4×4 in March 2010, but heavy rain and snow can have an incredibly destructive effect. Please use this adviser planner with large helpings of common sense. Call ahead to find out the road conditions. We can accept no responsibility for travellers attempting the routes described.
Here’s some recommended 4×4 routes and viable accommodation en route:
Serious 4×4 route from Johannesburg
Head for Clarens, stopping at Bethlehem for the last supply run (better variety and cheaper). Drive through Golden Gate Highlands National Park to Monantsa (Pass) border postgate.
Overnight at the luxury Maliba Lodge or the more reasonable Maliba River Cottages nearby.
Other options for overnight accommodation in this area (Mafika Lisiu Pass) are at the Motebong Village at Lejone and at Katse Dam Lodge at the dam wall. At Thaba Tseka – overnight at the Buffalo Hotel.
Mashai – Overnight at Mashai lodge – Matebeng – Overnight at Bob Phillips Camp – Matebeng Pass – Overnight in Sehlabathebe National park or just outside the park in the Ranger Station
From Johannesburg (easier 4×4 route)
Head for Clarens and then Tele Bridge border post – (see Cape Town route below).
4×4 from Durban via Kokstad enter via – Ongeluks Nek border post go via Maponeng Pass and the Devil’s Staircase and overnight at Moorosi. Take the Lebelonyane Pass to Sehlabathebe.
Or an easier, more direct route to Sehlabathebe from Moorosi is through Ramatseliso’s Gate. This route is shorter and road is better but at 4×4 is still recommended.
From Cape Town
Head to Rhodes or Barkley East/Aliwal North- Lundine’s Nek and/or Tele Bridge stay at Moorosi and follow tar via Lebelonyane Pass to Sehlabathebe on A4.
Or more for a more challenging route, go via Ongeluks Nek – Devil’s staircase – Maponeng Pass to Sehlabathebe.
Who to contact
My itinerary and accommodation was arranged by Glenn Jones of Malealea Tours. If you would like to experience this beautiful, friendly country and need a few handy tips in planning your adventure, Glenn he is always willing to share some local knowledge and advice. Tel 082-824-0883, e-mail [email protected], web www.malealeatours.com.
Where to stay
Sehlabathebe National Park, Johnathan’s Lodge costs R150 per person per night or R1800 for the entire lodge (sleeps 18), camping R50 per person per night.
Sehlabathebe Equine hire costs R120 per horse for a trip from the lodge to Bushmans Nek, R70 per horse guided within the park or R120 per horse guided outside of the park. Tel 266-2231-1767 or 266-2232-6075.
*NOTE: Booking Sehlabathebe is a hit and miss affair, you may have the lodge to yourself or have to share it with others who’ve booked the same room. If this happens try Ha Semenyane Ranger Station, R50 per person per night in a comfortable, clean dormitory tel 00266-5807-1433, e-mail [email protected], Web www.sehlabathebe.com.
Sehlabatebe Gate GPS: 2952’12.05″S, 29 4’3.18″E
Johnathan’s Lodge GPS: 2952’7.72″S, 29 6’58.17″E
Ha Semenyane Ranger Station GPS: 2953’11.14″S, 29 2’32.87″E
In Clarens stay at the quaint, self-catering Berg Cottage it sleeps eight and costs R200 per person per night, kids under 12 half price. Tel 058-256-1112, e-mail [email protected].
Maliba Mountain Lodge is arguably Lesotho’s premiere hotel. Set in the beautiful Tsehlanyane National Park, the lodge is worth an extended stay it’s pricey at R1370 per person sharing so you may want to book into the nearby Maliba River Lodge at R1#520 for four people sharing a self-catering chalet. Tel 031-702-8791 or 082-778-8558, e-mail [email protected], web www.maliba-lodge.com.
GPS: 2854’51.95″S, 2826’10.23″E
Motebeng Village at Lejone – newly refurbished self-catering cottages that sleep 2 at R500, 4 at R800, 5 at R1200, 7 at R1500.00 – tel: 00266-2222-7600, e-mail [email protected], web www.katsedam.co.za.
Buffalo Hotel in Thaba Tseka offers accommodation in en suite rondavels that sleep two and costs R400 per person per night sharing with breakfast. Tel 00266-2700-7339, e-mail [email protected], web www.katsedam.co.za.
GPS: 2932’57.29″S, 2837’4.56″E
Mashai Lodge is comfortable self-catering and costs R150 per person per night. Tel 00266-5888-0303, e-mail [email protected].
Bob Phillips Camp is a lovely secluded site on the banks of the Matebeng River, it is absolutely basic so you need to be totally self-sufficient and leave only footprints. For more info visit Lesotho Thin-Air Challenge: www.lesothothinair.co.za.
GPS: 2948’32.23″S, 2849’31.22″E
Moorosi Chalets is set at the foot of the historic Mount Moorosi. They have en suite rondavels at R200 pre person per night, basic huts at R140 per person per night and camping costs R70 per person per night. Tel 082-824-0883, e-mail [email protected], web www.malealeatours.com.
GPS: 3013’57.64″S, 2753’32.67″E
What to do
Sehlabathebe Equine Hire, based at Sehlabathebe National Park Lodge, offers guided horseback tours. It costs R120 a horse for a trip from the lodge to Bushmans Nek, R70 a horse within the park and R120 a horse outside of the park per horse, per day. Tel +266-2231-1767 or 266-2232-6075.
Hints and travel tips
Pack gear for all weather conditions, including snow. If travelling in winter snow chains would be invaluable. Beware, lightning is a real killer in Lesotho.
Be prepared: bring more than one spare tyre and tyre weld and an emergency puncture kit. It is best to travel in convoy with at least one other vehicle. Buy fuel at every opportunity, as supply can be erratic.
Don’t pass a border post without getting your passport stamped. This can happen easily, as the Lesotho side is lax, but it can cause you unnecessary problems when you exit.
Take lots of drinking water. There are no big-brand supermarkets along these routes, but you can usually get fresh veggies, meat and basic supplies in towns along the way. Take a good cooler box or 12V fridge. (You can buy cold beers along the way at almost any village tavern.) Don’t forget good torches and lanterns, plus batteries. Wood is scarce, so bring your own and be aware of the environment when making campfires.
Lesotho’s official currency is the Loti (plural, Maloti), which is divided into 100 lisente. Rands are accepted in Lesotho, but remember that you won’t be able to use Maloti in South Africa. There are ATMs in the bigger towns and some lodges will accept credit cards, but it’s best just to take good old cold cash.
Communications are very unrealiable at Sehlabathebe. but Vodacom has recently erected a mast, but it was not yet on-line at the time of writing. Vodacom Lesotho is the most reliable network, but only near larger towns and settlements.
Bring a good attitude. Stonings have been reported (even on the Alerts on our GPS!), but we had no problem. Anything can be defused with a broad smile and a laugh.
Don’t, like the early missionaries, hand out sweets or gifts to the kids. It’s not sustainable and turns them into pests when other visitors stop. Break the cycle with a gentle smile.
