Many of the world’s most stunning natural phenomena are well-publicized and well-exploited by enterprising tour companies. There’s something profoundly heartbreaking about dreaming of a National Geographic photo spread as you plan your trip and arriving to discover there’s no space in the car park and no view past the Tilley hats.
But there’s hope for the crowd-exhausted traveler: Namibia’s Fish River Canyon is the most beautiful best-kept secret on the planet.
Fish River Canyon is, allegedly, the second largest canyon on the planet after the Grand Canyon. (How does one measure a canyon? You can figure that one out when you visit.) The canyon is preserved as part of the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.
Southern Access
Driving south from Grünau to the southern end of the canyon at Ai-Ais, there is plenty of space on the road for whatever gemsbok and wildebeest decide to share a lane with you. The winding gravel highway down into the canyon is probably the most stunning part of a visit to Ai-Ais, however; views of the canyon itself aren’t anything to write home about, but a refreshing dip in the hot springs and a sighting of klipspringers bouncing up the canyon walls make the drive worthwhile.
Viewpoints in the North
If you’re strapped for time, drive straight for Hobas and head 10km further into the park for the main Fish River Canyon viewpoint. On a lucky day you’ll get the shaded picnic area to yourself. The wide canyon lies at your feet, a desert expanse void of carparks and souvenir shops at your back.
It's hard to miss the Cañon Roadhouse
No trip to Fish River Canyon is complete without the obligatory stop at the Cañon Roadhouse on your way out. The Route 66 kitsch adds an extra refreshing chill to your cold beer before hitting the gravel highway again.
Cañon Roadhouse provides the perfect blend of kitsch to make your cool drink a little colder.
Travel tips
While the entire trip to Fish River Canyon off the B1 highway is on gravel C highways, the drive is completely accessible for a compact car. Fill up on petrol at Grünau or after a dip in the pool at Ai-Ais. Accommodations in the park are slightly more upmarket, at the Cañon Lodge and Cañon Village or at Fish River Lodge. Fish River Canyon is also possible as a daytrip from Karasburg or, a little farther afield, from Keetmanshoop.
For a friendly, down-home guest house nearby try the White House Rest Camp, 11 kilometres north of Grünau off the B1. Stay in the main house (yep, it’s white) or in one of the small cabins nestled between desert hills. Camping spots are also available. Owner Kinna de Wet can even cook you a delicious meal – my venison was unforgettable – or prepare a braai pack for you to grill yourself.
Fish River Canyon is one of those places that will stay engrained in your memory long after departure, a true “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints” experience. While I can’t help but tell everyone that it’s a must-do on any Namibia roadtrip, I also secretly hope that the canyon remains enough of a secret that the intrepid travelers who seek it out can enjoy it in peace.
