Port Nolloth is a small town and seaport in the Namaqualand region on the north-western coast of South Africa, 144 km north-west of Springbok and about 175 km from the Ai-Ais/ Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.
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The indigenous Namaqua people knew the bay upon which the port sits as Aukwatowa (where the water took away the old man). Portuguese Explorer Bartolomeu Dias noted its location on his epic voyage around the Cape in the 1480s. It was the last landfall he sighted before a wild storm blew his ship off course and out to sea for 30 days. He eventually landed at what is now Mossel Bay. The land surrounding Port Nolloth remained virtually uninhabited until the discovery of copper at Okiep, 160 km inland, in 1852. The Cape’s powers-that-be took steps to locate a suitable harbour from which to ship the copper ore, surveying and selecting Aukwatowa bay thanks in no small part to its cover from offshore winds.
The town’s popularity declined in the early 1900s, but the discovery of alluvial diamonds in the area in 1926 led to its revival. The harbour was deepened and enlarged in the ’70s, and diamond mines and diamond diving continued to operate in the area.
Once the headquarters of a thriving fishing industry, today it resembles a forgotten port, with its principal seagoing activities now relatively small-scale fishing and small-vessel tourism. This laid-back town – with numerous holiday homes and a caravan park at the nearby McDougalls Bay, is ideal for holidaymakers seeking a relaxing break where they can soak up the sun and flee for time away from it all.
Day 1
PORT NOLLOTH MUSEUM
This humble museum, built in 1880 but only transformed into a museum in the 2000s, showcases Port Nolloth’s rich history and culture with artefacts, photographs and relics from hundreds of years ago. The collectables range from ancient matchboxes to snoek teeth (yes, snoek teeth), porcelain shards and slave bracelets washed ashore from shipwrecks, fragments of Khoi clay pots and a massive collection of photographs and artefacts from the time of copper ore shipments and diamond mining.
THE LIGHTHOUSE
Apart from being the most northern lighthouse on the western side of the country, it is also unusual looking, an 11-metre-high aluminium lattice tower with a triangular day marker in black-and-white stripes.
The original lighthouse was commissioned in 1906 after a petition to the Cape colonial government to erect a permanent coastal light, and a fog signal was introduced three years later. The original tower was 18.5-m tall, a cast-iron red column supported by four heavy steel wire guys anchored in concrete. It was replaced in the ’70s after it was decided the lighthouse should become automated and was relocated about 50 m inland. Today, the lighting system flashes either red or white to indicate whether there is enough water over the reefs outside the bay for vessels to enter the harbour safely.
DAY 2
LIFE’S A BEACH
Museums and lighthouses aside, chances are that if you’ve come this far, you’re either on your way somewhere or looking for the ultimate seaside escape. This area boasts pristine beaches right on the doorstep of guest houses, shops and restaurants.
Grazia de Beer is one of the town’s most popular beaches for swimming, exploring and having family fun in the sunshine, which isn’t surprising, given its roughly 2-km stretch of warm, inviting sand, relatively small waves ideal for casual surfers and rock pools for kids to explore. Beyond Grazia, a rocky stretch of coastline extends for a further 2 km, flanked by a boardwalk. Meander along the entire length of this boardwalk, watch the waves and chat to the friendly locals. Blue Flag beach McDougalls Bay is a few kilometres south.
Port Nolloth comprises kilometre after kilometre of quiet, pristine beaches. Families can drive to a secluded spot where it’s just them, the waves and the gulls. There are massive reefs in front of most of Port Nolloth’s beaches, home to some stunning marine life, which you can explore with your snorkel and goggles. A bonus: the reef means the waves don’t get too big, most of the time. You can fish from the shore or the rocks, but it’s more popular and productive from the little boats that go out to sea. Chat to the locals and barter with someone to take you out fishing.
FLOWERS GALORE
Port Nolloth is part of the breathtaking Wildflower Route. It is around a 2.5-hour drive from the Ai-Ais/ Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. Wildflowers in spring never cease to amaze and delight even those who’ve seen them before. This display of flowers is highly anticipated. Almost 4 000 different species of plant seeds await germination that’s entirely weather-dependent. Some say every year is different, and experts agree the flowers could start blooming from July, possibly stretching into October (August-September is best). Each visit brings a different formula and a unique selection of flowers. Visit the local tourism bureau to find out where this year’s best flower displays are.
It isn’t surprising the spectacle is such a drawcard to the Namaqualand, where you will need at least two to three days to take in the profusion of colour and the extent of the floral display, provided the desert is experiencing a good year.
WHERE TO STAY
YIELD HOUSE (yieldhouse. co.za) offers guests lovely self-catering accommodation on the beachfront. Depending on your group’s size, you can book one or all of its three sections a three-bedroom home,
a studio apartment and a courtyard cottage, each with a smart TV, Wi-Fi, braai facilities and a kitchen or kitchenette. The courtyard cottage has one bedroom with a double bed and a smart TV with DStv. There is a sleeper couch in the living area.
For those who want to explore, it’s 1 km from the harbour and various shops, 5 km from McDougalls Bay, 90 km from Steinkopf and 142 km from Springbok. From R900 pn (based on two people sharing, sleeps four, maximum two adults)
EAT HERE
If a good meal with a gorgeous sea view is what you’re after, look no further than BELLA DE PORT. Enjoy fish and chips while overlooking the ocean from their outdoor seating area, or fuel your upcoming adventure with one of their hearty breakfasts. Sunday lunches are a treat at Bella de Port, with a different menu of home-cooked goodness available each week.
This article was is originally published in the September 2024 issue of Getaway. Find us on shelves for more!
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