‘You wanna go where everybody knows your name,’ sang the theme song of popular 80s TV series Cheers.
That song comes to mind when you visit St Francis Bay, as the cashiers greet the patrons by name, asking after the spouse, the ankle injury, the garden, before moving on to the next person in line. The pace is slower here. After all, what’s the hurry?
St Francis Bay sits just over an hour’s drive west from Gqeberha. It has been described as the jewel of the Eastern Cape and with its ideal location and fantastic coastline, it’s easy to understand why. It’s a popular holiday spot for Eastern Capers and those from further afield, too.
Perhaps less well-known than its more famous neighbour, Jeffrey’s Bay, St Francis Bay is a magnet for those looking for a quieter retreat. Don’t be fooled into thinking that the offerings are in any way diminished, however. There are a wealth of activities for those looking to enjoy the waves, the wildlife, the ambiance.
The Town features an impressive marina and canal system. Combined with the pretty whitewashed and thatched homes, there’s an exclusive, upmarket feel to it. Places to eat? Take your pick. Accommodation? You won’t struggle.
Plenty to fauna over
Whales can be spotted in the Bay between May and October while dolphins are never far away as they travel between St Francis Bay and Jeffrey’s Bay. The Cape clawless otter can be spotted around Port St Francis and at Otters Landing. With over 200 bird species recorded in the area including the rare African oystercatcher and fish eagle, the area is a twitcher’s paradise.
The Kromme River and surrounding farmlands host a wide variety of habitats: riverine with mud and sand banks, salt marshes, coastal scrub, fynbos, open veld, agricultural land, as well as occasional freshwater vlei and pans.
This abundance of flora habitats many an abundance of birds, even a few special / endangered ones, such as the Denham’s bustard, blue crane and white-bellied bustard.
Water birds abound on the sand banks in the Kromme especially in summer. The best time to observe the birds is when the tide is coming in and the water pushes the birds closer to the banks of the river. Evening, provided the tide is right, is best for waders. The excellent St Francis Tourism has plenty more info on what can be spotted.
Get active
St Francis Bay sits nearby to Cape St Francis and is popular for surfing, its beautiful stretch of beach and the historic lighthouse, built in 1878.
The lighthouse stands just under 28 metres tall and is the tallest masonry lighthouse in South Africa. Built in 1878, it continues to operate, although now with a modern radio beacon, fog signal and fog detector. It was declared a National Monument in 1984.
The area is famous among surfers for its spectacular waves – ‘Bruce’s Beauties’ (after the photographer who featured them in the 1960’s cult film Endless Summer) – and Seal Point, which when at its best can give surfers a ride of over 100 metres.
If you want to surf sand waves, we suggest the nearby sand dunes at Jeffrey’s Bay, the highest and most spectacular in South Africa – a perfect spot for sandboarding.
Walking trails winding along the rocky coast, through the Irma Booysen Floral Reserve, and along the Cape St Francis point, links it to the village of St Francis Bay. There are options.
The Two Harbours Walk connects the Heritage Eco Centre at the Granny’s Pool in Harbour Road with Port St Francis. It takes about an hour, is well marked and includes footpaths, wooden steps and some rocky sections.
The Rocky Coast Farm Hike starts at the first parking area at Sunset Rock, St Francis Bay. Follow this route and you will find the blow hole (although it must be high tide to be at its most impressive), an unknown unmarked grave which contains the remains of the Osprey that sunk in 1867, coastal middens with ample shells and stone tools. There’s also unique fynbos and plant species of this area.
Lastly, the Irma Booysen Flora Reserve can be entered at various points in St Francis Bay and has well-marked intertwining routes through the reserve. The trees are marked for easy identification and benches are placed throughout the reserve.
A myriad interesting insects, reptiles, small animals and birds inhabit the reserve.
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Feed me, St Francis
You’ll have your choice of eateries on St Francis Drive, with Rambling Rose, Twenty Two Eatery and Wine Bar, St Francis Brewing Co and Off the Menu Food Emporium to choose from.
Rambling Rose has excellent food and service and a lovely vibe. Great coffee with friendly staff. All you need, really. There’s always something fun happening at St Francis Brewing Co
Judging by some of the online reviews, you’ll get some of the best meals you’ve ever tasted at Twenty Two Eatery and Wine Bar.
Off the Menu is a speciality grocer offering luxury foods, premium boutique wines and artisan coffees with expert personal service.
A bit further out of Cape St Francis, Mauro’s is a Mediterranean-style restaurant specialising in Italian Food, situated at the St Francis Port.
Stay here
Ever stayed at a lighthouse? Now you can.
In addition to doing what it was commissioned for, this idyllic National Monument offers travellers a unique experience. It is rare to find a destination that is both historic and one-of-a-kind. Enjoy an unparalleled stay inside this extraordinary landmark.
The accommodation comprises two luxurious self-catering wings, which are attached to the lighthouse tower on either side. The original lighthouse keepers’ quarters have been thoughtfully restored with modern amenities and luxuries, while preserving their original character. Breakfast at Nevermind restaurant is included in your stay.
This article was written for Getaway’s October 2024 print edition. Find us on shelves for more!
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