I was up at dawn this morning trying to get some good shots of the sunrise over the Orange River, with, I have to admit, very limited success. It was a shame too, with the beds at Sun River Kalahari Lodge as comfortable as they were. Jan was up early too and managed to get a 10 kilometre run in (so he claims) before breakfast. By day nine, I’ve noticed, we’re now all hitting the fruit and yoghurt buffet with a great deal more enthusiasm than the bacon and sausage trays.
The veld between Upington and Kimberley looks in very good condition after all the rain they’ve had up here. The flood damage to the plush looking properties along the river in Upington looked quite incredible with the water line as much as five or six metres above the current level of the river, which is apparently still much higher than usual. The communities living in this part of the country have had it rough with the heavy rains. At least it seems to have done some good to the rolling, grass-covered hills stretching green to the horizon.
We took the R64 to Kimberley and arrived around 14:15 at the Protea Hotel Kimberley, a relatively new, almost boutiquey lodge with well sized rooms, king sized beds and intriguing views from its perch just 50 metres or so back from the rim of the Big Hole.
It was a perfect location for us. That day’s braai was to be located within the recently revamped Big Hole tourist complex, just alongside the new steel lookout platform which has been built jutting out over the Big Hole’s edge (though not so far that you could jump in – apparently there have been a few scattered incidents though none very recently). With the hotel just minutes from the complex, we could check in, clean ourselves up and stroll down to the braai at our leisure.
The day’s braai was hosted by Rudi de Winnaar from Korki’s Meat Market in Kimberley who produced exquisite smoked bacon, excellent Kameelhout boerewors and rib-eye steaks as big as my face. With Tessa from the hotel providing all the chairs, tables, cutlery and (thank you Tessa!) salads, we were set for a top braai at a fascinating and unique location.
While Jan and the crew rushed around trying to find the best light for their interviews, I headed for the museum. The complex itself is relatively small, but has a new, sleek and well-kept feel to it. Opened in November 2006, the complex consists of a small “˜historical village’ (not usually my sort of thing, but very tastefully done here), a few souvenir shops, the viewing platform, an underground tour, a tramway along the rim and, of course, the museum. There is also a cinema with regular screenings of “˜Diamonds & Destiny’ – a short film on the history of the town’s diamond mining operations from its beginnings as “˜New Rush’ on what was then the “˜Colesberg Kopje’ in 1871, its frenetic early life and renaming to Kimberley in July 1873, and onwards through the rise of the big diamond magnets and the establishment of the massive diamond mining companies that are household names to this day.
The museum has some really excellent exhibits including a long, illustrated time-line running the entire length of one wall. Jan went immediately to 1980 and was shocked (in that charmingly megalomaniac way of his) that his own birthday had been somehow overlooked. Even more shocking was the absence of any mention of National Braai Day – and that happens every year on 24 September!
While I was engrossed in the more historical aspects of the time-line and checking out some of the old digging equipment on display, the braai outside was well under way. When I emerged, Rudi was bent over the rib-eyes and the sun was setting behind us as we looked down into the darkening hole below.
As usual, the food was excellent. As usual I ate perhaps that bit too much – even sharing half of one of those steaks was excessive I think. Afterwards we had a few drinks and a game of pool at Kimberley’s, and one of South Africa’s, oldest pubs, The Star of the West. Legend has it that this ancient tavern, built in 1870, was constructed from the wood and iron salvaged by a small group of surviving sailors, who carried it piece by piece from the wreck of their ship after it ran aground on the West Coast in the late 1860’s. It’s a small, fun, friendly sort of bar with old style saloon doors, rich, polished wood on all sides, a couple of pool tables and interesting old advertising posters framed high up on the walls.
After a quick couple games of pool (won one, lost one) I figured my game wasn’t on tonight and headed back to the hotel. Looking forward to a good night’s sleep on the massive, comfortable-looking bed in front of me and already wondering what tomorrow’s braai at Grey College in Bloemfontein will bring.
