Dinner at Terrarium. Don’t mind if we do, thank you.
The understated restaurant has freshly opened at the Queen Victoria Hotel in the V&A Waterfront. It sits on its perch on Portswood Ridge, overlooking the bustle of people below. And what a bustle it is. Almost 24 million people visit the V&A every year.
This is one reason you should hurry to book a table at Terrarium. Another reason is the sommelier, Marlvin Gwese, who is a joy. He’s full of information and loves sharing his love for wine through his considered pairings and spot-on recommendations.
Another reason to book a table at Terrarium is the food. It is splendid, conjured out of the imagination of Chef-patron Chris Erasmus and ably brought to life by Head Chef Anlou Erasmus.
Chef Chris Erasmus
It is served on bespoke Mervyn Gers pottery in all its blue-green-grey glazed glory (Churchhaven and Rock Pool, my favourites). We’re sorely tempted to slide the bread platter and iridescent mother-of-pearl bowl into our bags.
The restaurant serves an à la carte menu of small plates in the bar area in the evenings, but we’re here for the whole enchilada, and so should you be. The Fauna (meat and fish) and Flora (vegetarian) dégustation menus are eight courses each and can be taken with or without a wine pairing.
ALSO READ: Artful Dining
It begins as these things should, with a splash of playfulness and a hint of what is to come: the rolled-up Fauna menu is presented in a solid piece of bone, the Flora in bamboo. But for all its top quality refined fine dining, Terrarium has dispensed with pretention. It’s a warmly welcoming environment, where they know you’re here for the food and the chefs’ exquisite attention to detail.
The menus kick off with Asparagus or Oyster, both fresh and herby, paired with a lovely Domaine des Dieux Claudia Brut 2011 with its brioche notes and fine mousse. It is from a magnum bottle, and Marlvin tells us that all the pairing wines are magnums, making them that much better.
Why should a bigger bottle matter? Glad you asked. Wine in a bigger bottle ages better. There is twice as much liquid as in a standard bottle, but the same amount of oxygen between cork and liquid. (Oxygen ages the wine in the bottle). This means ageing is slower, giving the wine more complex flavours and smoother tannins. And that is the lesson for today.
The courses roll out, each one a delight in its own way, with flavours popping and washing over the tongue. The bread course is a creamy emulsion of mushroom spiked with lactic pickled plums, and bone marrow butter on the Fauna. Both menus follow with a sharp, tangy tomato tartar with a dash of chilli oil to wake up your taste buds.
Then the Fauna menu diners are treated to ceviche followed by sweetbreads with ‘weeds’, the Flora to slow-roasted leek and broccoli florets with watermelon BBQ sauce. Yes, watermelon. The wines pair beautifully – first, a Remhoogte Honeybunch Chenin Blanc 2023 with its complex layers of flavour, and then a Neethlingshof The Owl Post Pinotage 2021 – because what is a South African meal with Pinotage?
Chef Chris Erasmus
The meal is delicious, as one would expect from Chef Chris Erasmus, who has an enviable pedigree that includes restaurants worldwide. In South Africa, he is probably best known for Foliage in Franschhoek, but he also has Le Quartier Français, Le Quartier Français’ Tasting Room and Pierneef Restaurant à La Motte Franschhoek under his belt.
Soon to come to Terrarium is a live music programme, including folk and blues performances, as well as postmodern jukebox-style singers accompanied by the hotel’s grand piano.
Good, old-fashioned music and dining paired with contemporary culinary innovation. Best of both worlds.
021 419 6677
theterrarium.co.za
(This article was written by Lorraine Kearney for Getaway’s January 2025 print edition. Find us on shelves for more!)
Follow us on social media for more travel news, inspiration, and guides. You can also tag us to be featured.
TikTok | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter
ALSO READ: How to eat like a local when travelling
