Just off the coast of Tanzania is Mafia Island: a raw, untouched paradise still immune to the melee of seasonal sun seekers. Tyson Jopson spent a week there and discovered that things work a little differently when you’re off the tourist radar. For now…
For the full story, buy the November issue of Getaway magazine.
Mafia Island is the kind of place any travel journalist would be reluctant to write about. It felt, and still feels, like I’ve given up a rare secret: the location to paradise unfamiliar – an overlooked time capsule floating in suspended animation, almost impervious to the swell and squabble of its postcard cousins. Less than 1 000 visitors touch down on its shores every year and most come for one reason alone: to experience underwater nirvana. But things might be changing. I spent a week there doing a story for the November issue of Getaway magazine (on shelves next week). Here are some photos I took along the way.
Getting to Mafia Island
The flight from Dar es Salaam to Mafia Island is about 45 minutes by light aircraft. Prices vary seasonally but are usually around US$100 (one way). Take note: in the off season, flights may be cancelled if they are not at capacity. FastJet offers flights from Johannesburg to Dar es Salaam from R1 600 (one way). There are five lodges on the east side of the mainland (inside the marine park), one on the west side of the mainland and one on Chole Island. Transfers from the airstrip to your accommodation are organised by the lodges and are usually included in the price of accommodation. If you’re staying inside the marine park (recommended), you will need to pay a Mafia Island Marine Park fee of $20 per person per night (at the time of writing). Cash only.
Where to stay
Unlike many other island destinations, Mafia does not cater to itinerant backpackers. There are a few backpacker-friendly ‘hotelis’ in Kilindoni but getting around the island can be tricky (there are only a handful of cars and tuk-tuk taxis do not operate on any kind of schedule). I highly recommend staying at one of the lodges inside the marine park where meals, drinks and activities are taken care of. Booking is essential. I stayed at Kinasi Lodge, which is a perfect mix of island-style chalet living, with slick service and friendly staff. The lodge also has free Wi-Fi for those who can’t wait to send photos home. Rooms start at $160 per
person per night (kinasilodge.com).