48 hours is just enough time to fall in love with this sleepy Lowveld town, writes Lauren Dold.
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A flash flood, a lost hat and a railway line; humble beginnings has Hoedspruit. Now on every safari-goer’s radar, Hoedspruit was once an obscure little Lowveld town with not much in the way of entertainment, besides the old Fort Coepieba pub where a local or two were known to shoot the clock at clos- ing time. But its proximity to the Kruger National Park, the Blyde River Canyon, and the rest of the Greater Kruger and Lowveld make it the per- fect place to spend the weekend, en route to the Kruger or not.
Hoedspruit was named by Dawid Johannes Joubert in 1844, the owner of the farm where the town is now. He decided this after a massive cloudburst over the catchment area near Mariepskop, what is now called the Zandspruit River, caused a flash flood that took his hat with it. To lose a hat in 1844 was a big deal, especially for a farmer in the Lowveld.
He was so upset at his loss that he named his farm Hoedspruit (Hat Stream or Creek) after the river that stole it.
Though still a mecca for would-be and hardened game rangers, Hoedspruit has become one of South Africa’s fastest-growing towns, under constant expansion and development. It hasn’t lost its sleepy Lowveld charm, though.
Hoedspruit’s unofficial mascot is the warthog, and the town has many, including a sounder of urban pigs who prefer to snooze under cars at the mechanic’s rather than forage in the wildlife estates. The local golf course is overrun with wildlife, the children go barefoot (as do some of the older townsfolk) and if someone tells you that you drink like a girl, it’s a compliment.
DAY 1
Take a Hike
The rolling Blyde River Canyon is only a 40km drive from Hoedspruit, and there is no shortage of things to do in and around the canyon. It’s the largest green canyon on Earth and the third-largest canyon in the world, and it’s practically Hoedspruit’s backyard.
The closest waterfall is just off the road after crossing the Blyde River, is only a 2km hike away, which children will do easily, and has a glorious natural pool to swim in. You could do this, take a scenic cruise around the Blyde Dam with Blyde Canyon Safaris and be back in the Hoed for a late afternoon lunch. Visit Hoedspruit Brewing Co for the best wood-fired pizza in town and a cold draught. 060 970 7771
Blyde Canyon Safaris offers daily trips at 7am, 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm, each lasting an hour and a half. Tickets cost R340 for adults and R190 for
children (2-12 years old) blydecanyonsafaris.com
Getaway Gallery
DAY 2
Head to Kruger
Hoedspruit is equidistant between Kruger’s Orpen Gate and Phalaborwa Gate. It takes an hour either way, so if you leave early you could be firing up your skottel and fighting off hornbills by brunch time. The picnic sites have skottels for rent, so all you need to bring is your eggs, your bacon and your binoculars. You could spend the entire day in Kruger or head back into town for sundowners and supper. Three Bridges restaurant on the Olifants River has an outdoor deck that faces the water, the ideal place to sip on a cold drink and spot hippos and elephants that often cross the river. 079 912 9416
Where to Eat
Head out of town on the R40 towards Tzaneen. The turn off to the Thirsty Giraffe sneaks up on you, so check your odometer and when you’ve driven 4km, slow down till you see Tshukudu on your right, and you’ll find the gate to the Thirsty Giraffe on the left. Father and daughter owners Vic and Lee make the best Portuguese fare you’ll find anywhere in the Lowveld, and play the best tunes. Don’t mind the donkeys that clop through the restaurant, they live here. 081 030 4568
Getaway Gallery
Where to Stay
Switsongo Boutique B&B is a beautifully appointed B&B situated on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate, where a giraffe or a little herd of nyala may stroll past your window. Switsongo has lovely bright rooms and a swimming pool, necessary in the Hoedspruit heat. There are also a number of cycling and walking trails on the estate that guests may enjoy. 082 403 8172.
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