I like lists.
I make lists about absolutely everything, and travel planning is no different. Leading up to my first weekend trip to Durban, I asked all the Durbanites I know what I should include in my visit to their city. In the end I whittled it down to a top three:
- Eat Curry. This was a no-brainer, but the ideal venue caused some debate. Eventually I settled on Patel’s, famous for their delicious all-veg menu.
- Shop at the market. My neighbour, a former-Durbanite yoga teacher, put in a request that I re-stock her incense supplies. Further advice directed me towards the Oriental Bazaar, a short distance from Victoria Street Market. I knew that I’d pick up a few boxes of Nag Champa somewhere in the vicinity of these two shopping havens.
- Drink Good Coffee. This last one was entirely my own, but no vacation is complete without a visit to the city’s top baristas. My most trusted coffee aficionado recommended Colombo.
Let’s be honest: plans change. Lists are disposable. Vacations never quite turn out as intended.
The execution of my well-thought list was severely hampered by two factors. First, in between visiting friends in the area, I only had three hours in Durban itself. Second, those three hours were on a Sunday afternoon, when most of the places I was keen to visit were closed.
I drove into Durban in tropical heat and, after circling the Victoria Street Market just as it was shutting its doors and passing the barred entrance of Patel’s, I gave up on finding downtown parking and headed for the beach. When all else fails, sand and sun can ease the pain of foiled vacation plans. Toss the list out the window and slap on the suncream.
My luck turned when I came across a small cluster of market stalls across OR Tambo Parade from the Amphitheatre at North Beach. An over-keen incense seller lectured me on the amount of fake Nag Champa for sale in Durban and sent me home with a variety of Thai and Nepalese incense to try. And a very large man in an apron emblazoned with “Never Trust a Skinny Chef” presided over the Curry Den stall, where I ordered a veggie bunnychow that cleared my sinuses and washed out my tear ducts. Topped off with an icy treat from Milky Lane, my lunch gave me enough fuel to wander down the boardwalk in the company of throngs of happy beach-goers.
Bunnychow from The Curry Den
Monday morning I set off for home with enough time to stop at Colombo Coffee’s Factory Café. The espresso was excellent although not mind-blowing; perhaps my taste buds were still a little dull from the previous day’s curry. But the café’s über hip vibe is enough reason to stop in for a jolt of caffeine. They currently have scissors and paper on every table so customers can make snowflakes to help decorate for the festive season. Where else can you do crafts with your coffee?
The Factory Café at Colombo
Back on the highway, I reflected on my Durban List and started planning another visit. What should I add to my list next time?
What are your top three things to do in Durban? Where can I get the best curry or the strongest coffee on my next trip to the city?
