Many know it as the place where matrics go raving, but for the remaining 51 weeks of the year, Umhlanga Rocks is actually a very friendly and rather pretty little holiday town just north of Durban. With a sandy beach that stretches all along its coastline and water that won’t frost the tips of your toes, this is one of those places where you can actually strut around in your shorts for most of the year.
It’s also pricey. The most obvious accommodation is in the luxury resorts lined up along the coast and hungry tummies are shown to the cobblestoned Chartwell Street, almost entirely dedicated to expensive restaurants.
Digging a little deeper, I put together a few places for eating, drinking and sleeping that won’t max out your credit card. You’ll also find inspiration for that one evening that you allow yourself to splash out a little.
Where to eat in Umhlanga
Surf life saving club
Life Saver’s, as locals fondly refer to it, doesn’t offer you top class service, but the fish is deliciously fresh and the drinks are cold. You order and pay (with cash) at the hatch, buy a drink at the bar, find a wooden bench on the balcony and watch the waves until your impressively proportioned plates of food arrive.
Find it along the Promenade as you walk north from the lighthouse.
Priced between R50 and R80 for a proper portion of seafood and burgers
031-561-3519
www.umhlangalifesaving.co.za
Remo’s
Get to hang out with the cool crowd in Chartwell Street, while tucking into tasty pizzas and pastas that are decently priced and have authentic Italian toppings. Even in the middle of the week, this is a vibey evening spot, with cheerful music and happy waiters.
Find it on the corner of Chartwell and Umhlanga Rocks Drive.
Priced between R70 and R90 for a pizza that I found difficult to finish in one sitting
031-561-7143
www.remos.co.za
Splash out: Harvey’s
Recently relocated from Durban, Harvey’s is the epitome of fine dining. The waiters wear corseted waistcoats, the dishes require explanations and there’s a monstrously elegant chandelier hanging from the roof. But what’s great is that, while the meals are outstanding and gourmet and delicious, the portions are also quite large.
Find it on the corner of Umhlanga Rocks Drive and Ridge Road
Priced between R110 and R180 for a main course
031-561-4977
www.harveysrestaurant.co.za
Where to drink in Umhlanga
The George
Even though the town’s most popular watering whole is in the infamous Chartwell Street, it’s not expensive – at all. The party tends to flow over into the street when the bar stools and benches outside aren’t enough anymore. It’s probably the busiest place for beer and shots on a Friday night.
Find it in the cobblestoned section of Chartwell Street. It’s hard to miss.
031-561-5850
Hooters
Perhaps recommended more for the guys, Hooters in Umhlanga is a very laid-back spot for drinks (or burgers). It’s also conveniently close to everything, with loads of restaurants below, next to, and across the street from it. And don’t worry girls; it’s really not as bad as they’d want you to believe. You might even enjoy it.
Find it at the Umhlanga Plaza Centre, 2 Lagoon Drive.
031-561-2744
www.hooterssouthafrica.com
Splash out: Elements at Beverley Hills
While the boys are at Hooters, the girls can treat themselves to at least one Cosmo at the Beverley Hills Hotel. The Elements Bar looks out over the ocean and the view is most beautiful in the late afternoon as the sun starts setting – conveniently also the best time of day for cocktails.
Find it on the first floor of the Beverley Hills at the bottom end of Lighthouse Road
031-561-2211
Click here to go to Elements’ page on the hotel’s website
Where to sleep
Jessica’s B&B
Nothing wrong with supporting one of the longest established B&B’s in town and getting to enjoy a warm welcome and very friendly owners and hosts at the same time. The little cottages are all on the same property as Jessica’s own house, but with private parking and separate entrances. For R50 extra you can tuck into cereals, fruit, toast and any form of bacon and eggs you want in the morning under the boma beside the swimming pool.
Find it at 35 Portland Drive
Priced from R550 a night for a two-sleeper self catering unit
031-561-3369
www.jessicaskzn.co.za
Backpackers on the Beach
Umhlanga is not known for its backpackers. In fact, this particular one in Durban North is the closest you’ll find to Umhlanga. Don’t worry; it’s only 5km away. The en suite double rooms and dorms are clean, crisp and bright, the showers are always hot and the breakfast (included) has loads of fresh fruit, toast and cereal to fuel up on. There’s also a bar and a swimming pool. Glenashley Beach is literally across the road.
Find it at 17 The Promenade, Durban North
Priced from R140 for a dorm bed
031-562-1591
www.durbanbackpackers.com
Splash out: Oyster Box Hotel
This may be the pinnacle of luxury in Umhlanga. It’s one of those places where you swim in a heated, private swimming pool while looking at the ocean, where there’s a cinema with all-day movies and free popcorn and sweets, where you can actually throw a stone at the ocean from your balcony and there are three restaurants, three bars and a full spa – all on the same premises.
Find it at 2 Lighthouse Road
Priced in the thousands per night. Make an enquiry and you’ll get an idea.
031-514-5000
www.oysterboxhotel.com
