6 Wilderness stays for seaside, lakeside & countryside living

Posted on 24 January 2023

South Africa’s very own lake district in the Garden Route offers peace, beauty, and adventure in equal parts. There’s plenty of variety in terms of accommodation too – plus good value. Here are the few that made the cut.

1. Pearl Moon No. 4

When Carmina Cloete’s children moved out, she decided to renovate the entire ground floor of her home – a thatched building on an elevated site above the Touw River – and create four studios with kitchenettes. Each has sliding doors that open onto a private furnished deck with lovely river views. Carmen’s attention to detail and taste is impeccable – from the choice of mug and kettle to fittings like basins and shutters, everything she has chosen is easy on the eye.

Guests have their own (shared) main entrance, with units accessed from a corridor; all are visually private. Room 4 is definitely the top pick for its Zen-like garden deck with a water feature under a large milkwood canopy and the fact that it has a private bathroom behind the bedroom. (In the other suites, the bathroom is located within the room behind a glass screen; these have sandblast patterning but don’t provide much visual privacy if you’re at all squeamish about these things.)

2. Moontide Guest Lodgewilderness stays

In 2018, owner Maureen Mansfield flew to London to pick up a new trophy – it was the second year running that Moontide has been awarded ‘Best Luxury Hideaway’ by Luxury Travel Guide, but then Moontide is no stranger to awards. It’s partly to do with the setting: shaded by 400-year-old milkwood trees, the guesthouse is right on the banks of the inviting Touw River (great for swimming), with canoes and a pedalo available for guests, and a three-minute stroll to the beach.

It’s a sprawling homestead comprising just eight en-suite rooms – some freestanding – all with their own garden entrance and private seating area. The breakfast setting on the terrace overlooking the river is as popular with birds as it is with guests – there is a birding checklist in your room. Note that six rooms are under thatch – if you’re allergic to grass this is not the place for you, but birders and bargain hunters alike flock to this riverside gem; occupancy during the last low season was anything but, so book early.

3. Oakhurst

Having always enjoyed the Seven Passes Road to Knysna for the bucolic scenery, it was great to get off the road and explore this beautiful 640-hectare, sixth-generation dairy farm. Accommodation options include the historic Forge (currently being renovated, ready by December), five ‘farm cottages’ set along the edge of the forest, and a separate cluster of four smaller ‘schoolyard cottages’ a short drive away. All are well-maintained, and very tastefully decorated with lovely touches.

There is much to do here, with 240 hectares of pristine fynbos and indigenous forest for guests’ use only: 16 kilometres of well-marked track for trail running or mountain biking, guided horse riding, hikes to a waterfall, fishing, and canoeing on the farm dam, swimming in the natural spring-fed pools, clambering up the climbing wall to the ‘crows nest’ platform, visiting the dairy and feeding the calves.

4. Wilderness BushcampWilderness stays

This is the family home of John Pfaff, the surfer-developer who helped shape much of Wilderness. It’s a nine-hectare property atop the hill, offering the best vantage point in the area. Over the years the Pfaffs built a number of timber cabins, and since John’s passing the family home is also available: three-bedroom Aloe House comes with a pool and 360-degree views, plus a studio and suite. All are self-catering and there is also a ‘lapa’ area with braai and pizza oven.

The cabins are showing signs of age but are clean and neat, the collection is well managed, and for this price, you’re getting an absolute bargain.

5. Beside Still Waters

Bo-Langvlei Road is a dirt track that skirts the Langvlei lake – it’s undeveloped and peaceful and feels very far from the busy N2, with gentle hillocks covered in natural vegetation providing lovely water views. This is where Rod and Hydie McDade retired to, building their very pretty double-story home and adjoining cottage in a way that sits just right in these surroundings. The whole Wilderness area is great for birders but the proximity of Beside Still Waters to Malachite bird hide (a lovely 20-minute walk) and its Langvlei views make it a particularly good choice.

Aside from this, Hydie is the most wonderful hostess – she has two en-suite B&B rooms in her home but she takes as much care of guests staying in the three self-catering units, picking fresh flowers and leaving a little treat on arrival and baking fresh muffins on the morning of departure. She will drop off a breakfast basket or whatever else is needed given prior notice.

6. Haus am Strand

Wilderness stays

Picture: Haus am Strand

A collection of seven brightly-hued self-catering suites on the beach. I particularly liked Ocean Suite.

Don’t miss this

• For local produce, Milkwood Village Sunday Funday Market or the Timberlake Organic Village.
• Kloofing, abseiling, or canoeing with Eden Adventures or Fearless Adventures.
• Exploring the five SANParks forest trails (3.5km Giant Kingfisher leads to a waterfall and pool).
• Snorkelling in the Touw River to see salt- and fresh-water fish.

Written by Pippa de Bruyn

Pictures: Teagan Cunniffe

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