There are many parts about my job that I love. I get to be captivated by South African greats who, at times, happen to be my heroes, and I get to share what they share with me, with you. I recently sat down with umam’Gcina Mhlophe for an enthralling journey down memory lane, spanning 34 years of travel. As someone I grew up absolutely giddy over, having her recount tales in her famously impassioned manner right in front of me, really did blow my mind.
Have a look below for the full interview that appears in Getaway’s October 2014 issue, and a video tip-off for Gcina’s secret travel hideaway.
Extra, extra: Check out our magazine interview archives ›
Umama lit up the room. Photo by Thanda Kunene.
A friend is visiting from America. Where should they stay?
I’ve had a lovely relationship with the Hilton Hotel, so when friends come I recommend it and they love it.
Why?
Some people think it’s flashy and make assumptions. It’s glamorous – world class – but something about it is understated. I have a relationship with [human resources manager] Malcolm Fynn… They had renovated [their Joburg hotel] and wanted staff to have a renewed sense of pride about their establishment, for it to be theirs … The people who work at the Hilton matter. I like a hotel that takes pride in its staff.
What’s the first thing they should do in Durban?
People can’t wait to get into that ocean! Even in winter, they swim – that’s the beauty of the Indian Ocean. Then they can go to [Moses] Mabhida Stadium and take the SkyCar to the viewing platform to see 360 degree views of Durban and beyond. Then there’s the Big Rush Big Swing for people who like extreme sports.
Where will they find a bit of culture?
They must see the Mazisi Kunene Foundation. Professor Mazisi Kunene wrote so many books and poetry in isiZulu, in longhand. You can see an exhibition of those books and learn about him. On Florida Road, you have the African Art Centre. It’s got stunning artwork from this province: beadwork that I’m addicted to – ceramics, pottery, leather goods, books. Then we have Adams bookshop in Musgrave Centre and downtown. You hear people say, “I want a book written by South Africans, I want a book that gives me a window into the lives of South Africans”. I say, “Adams Bookshop”. Then there’s the Inanda Heritage Route, Mahatma Gandhi site, and the Ohlange Institute and Inanda Seminary that has produced so many women leaders.
Last stop?
The Valley of a Thousand Hills is one of the most hidden treasures of not only KwaZulu-Natal, but of South Africa. It’s so beautiful… There are several restaurants, stalls for artwork, you can interact with the community, see the river, and the view – wow!
Travel is about storytelling. Would you agree?
I certainly agree! I have travelled for the past 33 years; I’ve been to so many countries. People make it for me; it doesn’t matter where I go. Vancouver in Canada, people. Italy, it’s the people. When I go to Mantova Literary Festival, the festival is outstanding but then it’s the people – you walk into a restaurant and they welcome you and you sit down like you have arrived at home. In Japan, you cannot go anywhere without anyone saying “arigato” – that is one word you will bring back from Japan, “thank you”. People are almost grateful you are there and that is something we need to inculcate here: to welcome people with gratitude.
Do you travel mostly for work or pleasure?
Mostly for work, and pleasure creeps in there. Italy is one of my favourite countries in Europe. If I’m in Switzerland, I want to go to Lucerne – if I look at my itinerary and it mentions Lucerne, the answer is yes. In Sweden, I like Stockholm; it’s a fascinating city. And Malawi – I love Malawi. I still want to go back. It’s the physical beauty – what’s not to like – and then the people of Malawi. I adore them. Everybody is doing something with their hands.
Check out this gorgeous photoblog: Meet the people of Malawi
What’s your best childhood holiday?
When I was a child my grandmother, a master storyteller, would shout “ibanchi lam malindilandele” (my little overcoat, follow me!) I’d be ecstatic. She would have packed all the bags and all I would have to do was change out of my school uniform and we were leaving that moment. It wasn’t like we were leaving tomorrow; not in “how many sleeps.” “We’re leaving now”, she’d say. So we’d get onto that green mamba and off we’d go… to visit relatives in Dundee, Nongoma, Port Shepstone. She was called “umthwalo” (baggage), that was her nickname… She loved travelling; she was full of adventure.
This lady sure is a natural and working with her was a pleasure. Photo by Thanda Kunene.
Which country has the warmest people?
Malawi is still the warm heart of Africa That’s what they’re called and they deserve to be. In Europe, I would say Italy. In the East, I loved the Philippines and Singapore – it’s like they have invented the whole concept called service. Their service is done with so much joy, such humility.
Your thoughts on township tourism?
It’s important for people to meet South Africans. It’s nice to go to Kruger National Park and see the Big Five and to do the wine routes and taste our wines, which are fantastic I’m told (I don’t drink alcohol, so it’s hearsay), and the beauty of the land and all of that. But to meet South Africans and interact with South Africans – I love that.
Packing. Light or heavy?
Before I had a child I was so good and being a light packer. Then came the baby and you can’t be a light packer with a young person Now that she is grown I’ve discovered that I can buy light clothes that don’t need ironing. Don’t mention ironing to me.
What can’t you travel without?
I need something to read. I love reading. I think I’m going to go electronic now because books are heavy. You’ve got to compromise somewhere.
What else is a must-see in Durban?
The NSA Gallery in Glenwood: you can eat, you can listen to music – it’s outdoors so you can sit outside and watch people going by. There is a shop where you can buy an interesting variety of goods; some of my CDs are sold there and you can also find artwork all made by South Africans. And then there is the art exhibition itself; two floors, beautiful and they are also big on recycling. Of course one must visit uShaka Marine World. When it was first built I wasn’t sure and thought that it would just an aquarium; you know I’m the kind of person who works, and works and works. Down time, the ocean has the ability to still me. “Quiet woman, be still. Be grateful you’re alive. Thank God the creator, you are here.” So when I am in uShaka Marine and I go underneath into the shipwreck and go inside and watch, you are in another world and you don’t worry about deadlines, about what phone calls you have not made and worry about all kind of other things. You are just submerged into a little teaspoon of that greatest miracle and mystery.
We also asked Gcina about her secret hideaway:
Although we can’t offer you accommodation in mam’Mhlophe’s house, we can recommend these five best beachfront hotels in Durban for a lovely view.
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