Getaway photojournalist Dylan Kotze and I went on a two-week mission around South Africa’s coast in search of the country’s lesser known beaches. Here’s what we found … shhhh, don’t tell anyone.
Mabibi, Isimangaliso Wetland Park
27° 22′ 20″ S 32° 34′ 00″ E
Mabibi is the solitude seeker’s dream beach. You’ll meet more cows than people on the hour-and-a-half drive from closest town Sodwana Bay, a telltale sign that you’re in the heart of Maputoland. It’s an off-road vehicle joyride through soft sand and subtropical forest surrounding Lake Sibaya, and over steep coastal dunes that deliver you to the sea. The excitement of the journey is offset by the calm of the destination. Mabibi is a long stretch of footprint-free shoreline, equipped with a rustic campsite and little else.
Mabibi Camp, tel 035-474-1504, email [email protected]
Hluleka, Transkei
31° 48′ 22″ S 29° 19′ 45″ E
Carved into the steep cliff faces that line the Wild Coast, Hluleka is one of South Africa’s most beautiful beaches. The untouched cove is surrounded by tangled coastal forest, home to an abundance of birds, monkeys and bushbucks. True to the Wild Coast, waves break unpredictably, turning bottle green as they hit the shore. Getting there mightn’t be easy but the notorious Transkei roads are easily forgotten once relaxing on the deck of one of the Hluleka Nature Reserve chalets. Positioned high above the beach, they offer panoramic views of rocky coastline, rolling hills, thick bush and untamed ocean.
Hluleka Nature Reserve, tel 043-701-9600, email [email protected]
Shelley Beach, Kenton-on-Sea
33° 41′ 42″ S 26° 40′ 00″ E
Sitting on Shelley Beach, it feels as though it’s just you and the sea. Enclosed by a semi circle of high rock and sloping inward like a big bowl, the bay shelters you from the rest of the world. The constant rolling of waves onto the shore has a hypnotizing effect, drowning out all other sounds and adding to that feeling of being alone with your thoughts. At high tide the shore break can be quite aggressive, not ideal for swimming, but nearby Bushman’s and Kariega River are tranquil and popular for kids. Shelley is Kenton’s hidden gem, a place to hide from the holiday crowds.
The Oyster Box Beach House, tel 072-159-4805, email [email protected]
Noetzie Beach, Knysna
34° 04′ 46″ S 23° 07′ 42″ E
With its unusual blend of hillside castles, orange rock faces and Milkwood forest, Noetzie beach feels otherworldly. Just fifteen minutes from Knysna, it is surprisingly private, evident by the fish eagles and otters that call this place home. The surrounding Noetzie Conservancy has kept development of the area in check; the only architecture one sees from the beach are a scattering of turreted castles punctuated by the odd wood-slate cottage. The castles are hired out as holiday accommodation, big enough to accommodate the whole (extended) family and grand enough to celebrate that (very) special occasion. The beach is open to anyone – not just royalty – and is easily accessible from the N2.
Craighross Castle, tel 072-679-7473, email [email protected]
Victoria Bay, Wilderness
34° 00′ 16″ S 22° 32′ 55″ E
Vic Bay is, like, a fully cool beach bru. It’s a popular surfing spot, frequented by sun kissed board riders young and old. The wind-protected beach offers great views of the surfing action and there’s a tidal pool that’s safe for kids. The bay is small, framed by stratified rock on one side and a row of beachfront cottages on the other. A narrow promenade separates the cottages from the water and most who walk it carry a smile. Vic Bay is cosy and endearing, full of friendly people with seemingly carefree lives. Must be all that surf.
The Waves B&B, tel 082-822-5877, email [email protected]