We take a 4 x 4 trip all the way up the 40km Teewah Beach to get to Rainbow Beach which lies 700m off the World Heritage Fraser Island. This is the northern most point of the Sunshine Coast and the day is perfect for exploring the beach and forests. A King tide, caused by the approaching full moon, bashes its way against the shore and the excessive recent rainfall has caused deep undulations in the sand forcing us to take a slower drive. The speed limit on this stretch of beach is usually 80km/h which I find extraordinary. We pass flat dunes with groups of campers nestled in for the long haul and soon the Casuarinas forests are replaced with steeper, densely vegetated coloured sand dunes. A turn all the way to Double Island Point is thwarted as the tide warns us off, so we cut through a sandy track made by deep tyre trenches and out to Rainbow Beach and lagoon, accompanied by a welcome sight of kingfisher blue water. All the sea views I have seen so far on the Sunshine Coast have been flood stained from Rockhampton to Brisbane as the plant tannins change blue to muddy, chocolate coloured water.
This side of the beach is littered with 4×4’s parked along the edge of the shore to fish or surf the day away. The dunes of Rainbow Beach are aptly named, as they extend majestically around to the left boasting 74 different shades of sand. Aboriginal legend has it that the Rainbow and an evil killing boomerang fought over the beautiful Murrawar. They were both killed in the clash and the Rainbow broke into many pieces staining the sand. We wallow in the cool lagoon water to escape the heat as a leather-back turtle nervously checks our distance. We drive back through dense Eucalyptus rain forest which forms part of the Great Sandy National Park and find a picnic spot under the fig trees where we can watch the Goannas (large lizard) peering out of the long grass.
A cold beer and some Australian lamb chops on the braai see the day to an end, while kangaroos graze on the lawn next door. Night comes after the haze of mosquitoes have dined on me and even the vocal Kookaburra settles in for the night. The stars creep over the tall Eucalyptus and the chorus of frogs chant their own secret lullaby.
On to Melbourne via Tiger Airways tomorrow, I reflect on my time here, realising that one can spend wonderful summer holidays at the multitude of surfer littered beaches, soaking up the sun and dining on a never ending supply of fresh seafood. My favourite things shall be the salt and pepper calamari salads, the chilled sweet flesh of the Moreton bay bug dipped in Aioli mayonnaise, oh and of course all washed down with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or a cold glass of Pure Blond Lager.
I land safely in Melbourne and once again enjoy Australian efficiency by catching a shuttle bus to St Kilda. Melbourne is humming as tourists flood into Federation Square heading to the big screen to watch the action at the Rod Laver Arena not so far away. Finding accommodation proves to be a nightmare and I eventually get lucky with a private room in a St Kilda backpackers called The Oslo Hotel, something which I would regret later. Trams run continuously up and down the middle lanes as people jump on and off. I find myself on the number 16 tram pressed between a crush of equally hot commuters and tourists alike.
The architecture of downtown Melbourne is a blend of modern and abstract, punctuated by old and intricate churches and buildings. Glass walled museums stand alongside established bridges with old-fashioned lamp posts. The side-by-side houses of St Kilda have been renovated back to their original glory as important icons of the days of the Gold Rush, a building block in Melbourne’s history. Similar to downtown, the St Kilda beach and pier are buzzing with people as I realise that the sun never seems to set here. Wandering around capturing the light, as it begins to dip towards the horizon, I get lucky with a table for one in a packed café and watch the sky turn red and purple over a glass of wine. It is 9pm and the sun has finally gone down, I refuse to pay $20 for a pizza and decide to rather head up to the restaurant lined St Kilda Rd to find dinner I can actually afford. Tomorrow I am joining a tour to the Great Ocean Road so I decide to call it a night and some well earned sleep.
