The Sunshine Coast beckoned as I jumped on a Virgin Blue flight from Sydney to Maroochydore. I had planned to spend my days exploring the many beaches, marinas and national parks. But when we touched down, all that greeted me was wet, wet and more wet. It bucketed down for the next 72 hours with approximately 50mm of rain per hour and Queensland was assaulted with the worst flood since 1974. I was grateful to be staying on top of a hill in Buderim. We were issued stern warnings to remain indoors. The inland tsunamis were scary and quite devastating, fortunately the worst of the flood missed the greater Sunshine Coast area. I was stunned and emotional about the coverage and ongoing rescue attempts while I sent reassuring messages home to South Africa.
Eventually, dappled and soggy sunshine returned and I was able to begin exploring around. My lack of transport had me navigating the very reliable bus system, and putting in a few kilometres on foot. Mooloolaba Beach was humming with holiday makers desperate to catch up on days lost, and I realised that surfers are everywhere in this part of the world. I found a wonderful tour operator called Coastal Cruises Mooloolaba (originally Cruiz Away River Tours) and booked a lunch cruise. Darren the owner/captain delighted us with fact & fiction stories complimented by a five-star plate of fish and chips. The whole afternoon cost only $29 and was a truly worthwhile experience, compounded with my first sighting of a pelican. Visits to the Mooloolaba Fish Market, Cotton Tree Park and Sunshine Plaza are all I could manage as the sun turned the remaining rain pools into steam, making it eminently hot and sticky.
The rain unfortunately thwarted some of my plans, hikes through the forest were too muddy and landslides prevented a climb up Mount Coolum, although I think my legs were silently relieved to be let off from the hike up the 200m isolated volcanic dome. Eventually I was able to get to Noosa National Park, vast and bustling with locals and tourists alike. I chose the headland section and took a picturesque walk along the well-maintained coastal track. With views of the ocean all the way around I could not help but be amazed at the hundreds of surfers competing for their space on every swell. The evidence of the rain was still apparent in the constant flow of water down from the forest, coloured like rooibos tea. Pale eucalyptus and pandanus trees frame the coastline and the shiny blue sky, providing a multitude of photo opportunities. I could see Alexandria Bay hugging the corner of the headland as I captured the angry waves smashing themselves into the rocks guarding the entrance to Hell’s Gates Cove. Out on the cliff top I took a moment to look over the brown-tinged Pacific and catch the breeze on my face. There are few things in this world that I find as inspiring as the strong sea wind as it catches your hair and clears the cobwebs in your head. As is typical of the Australian countryside, I found the open space unlimited, without traffic or buildings to break the air and turn the outdoors into a claustrophobic’s nightmare. At Noosa, only the tree’s peaceful stance is buffeted by the wind, the sensation beckoning you over the edge in the hope that you too might soar on the updrafts.
My planned trip to Caloundra began with another rain storm, immediately succeeded by sauna like temperatures and a raging sun. My aim was to get a look at Bribie Island National Park and some of the diverse beaches along the famous coastline. Caloundra Cruises trundled up through Pumice Stone Canal and right along the shore of the national park at the northern end of Bribie. The eroded white-sand banks are scenic, and ospreys often sit in the heavy branched trees watching for lunch in the deep channel. The trip headed up to the Pelican Waters Tavern where I enjoyed a schooner of Pure Blond beer with a Cajun calamari salad and lemon-drenched chips. Once back in Caloundra I hired a bike and cycled up the esplanade past Golden Beach, Bulcock Beach and King’s Beach. After I got over the hill and down to Dicky Beach and George Watson Park, I was in desperate need of a swim. The dip helped, only for a few minutes, and soon the afternoon heat was baking me from the inside out once more. My last days in Maroochydore will finish off with a trip up Rainbow Beach. I look forward to more impeccable views, vistas and preserved parks, and hopefully relief from the intense heat.
