Holidays are great! After a 3-day romp around Paris visiting all the classic spots (the sombre, skull-lined catacombs and Mona-Lisa-moshpit included) we are now in Spain basking in glorious sunshine.
The first few days of our El Camino experience proved how out of shape I am, but after we dumped a few unnecessary kgs from our packs, we were well on the way. Subsequently, we have spent long days strolling through rolling hills and valleys on quiet country roads lined with wild flowers. At night we have stayed in the simple but comfortable “Albergues” specially set up for pilgrims in all the towns and villages along the route. Everywhere we are greeted with the now familiar “Buen Camino” (Good journey) and fortified with delicious local food and wine. Besides the walking itself, there are few demands on our time besides watching the invisible hand of the wind stroking the ripening wheat and avoiding intermittent flocks of sheep – a quite perfect way to pass any day in my opinion.
Nevertheless, walking anything between 20 and 30km everyday does take its toll and so we have taken rest stops along the way to recharge ourselves. The first was in Pamplona, home of the San Fermin festival and the famous “running of the bulls”. Unfortunately, we missed the festival, but we were able to relax and unwind in the quiet streets of the old city. The fact that we stayed in the worst hotel in the entire universe (the details of which is a whole other story) was an important reminder that the joys of travel are always balanced by its challenges ;-).
After another stint of very pleasant walking (including visits to ancient castles and lazy afternoon naps in road-side fields), our most recent pit stop has been the city of Leon. I knew nothing of this place before we set foot in it, but it proved quite lovely. Besides enjoying the beautiful old buildings and cafe-lined Plazas, we were fortunate enough to arrive during the festival of San Juan and San Pedro. As a result we were treated to riotously funny street theatre, omnipresent food stalls and a truly magnificent firework displays. We also attended a bullfight – my first such experience – but, despite the elaborate costumes, carefully choreographed performances and obvious enthusiasm of the crowd, I found the whole thing rather grisly and we left before the end. My own fault really for expecting animal slaughter presented as entertainment to be anything but disturbing. Still, the traveler learns as he lives.
As I write this, the soft comforts of a hotel bed and the clamour of the city behind us, we are on a train watching more Spanish countryside roll past. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we will not be able to walk the full length of the El Camino and so we are skipping ahead a few stops so as to be able to walk the final 100km into Santiago to claim our compostela. My feet and shoulders are rested and ready and you’ll hear all about it as soon as it’s done.
Until then, enjoy the walks and flowers wherever you are, wild or otherwise :-).
