Entry: 3 February 2010 (Day 113) Place: Metema, Western Border
Exit: 8 March 2010 (Day 146) Place: Omo Valley, South Western Border
Ethiopia was beautiful. The people had a raw, pure and unassuming attractiveness that is breathtaking. The landscape was stunning.
Mountains stretched to the heavens and the rolling hills were lush with acacia, baobab, fig and jacaranda trees; the latter bursting with purple blossoms. A link to nature could always be felt. The sight and call of numerous impressive birds served as a constant reminder.
There was, however, a less impressive bird that was too widespread. It had a squawking, high-pitched call of “You, You”, followed by “Gimme money” or “Gimme pen”. I’m alluding to Ethiopian children and their habit of expecting gifts and handouts from every faranji (foreigner) they see.
One morning I rose from my rooftop tent and, with my eyes still half shut. All of a sudden I was cruelly subjected to a piercing screech of pure joy that threw my eyes wide open. A young boy on the hillside was spinning round in circles waving his hands and frantically kicking his feet, as he screamed what I could only imagine meant: “The faranjis are awake!!!”. I stood dumbfounded and stunned as I was engulfed by a wave of children running down the hill in a similar fit of excitement.
This was a common scenario that demanded extraordinary tolerance to weather with good humour. It was disturbing to see such a widespread attitude of dependence and expectation. In my opinion some ‘tough love’ is needed by tourists to not blindly give to individuals, so that the whole people of Ethiopia may benefit from shedding this dependence.
A ray of positivity is that it may be changing. Our car was not thrown with stones, as so many other travellers had warned, and a repeat visitor said that the attitude in the north had improved, something he credited to increased education.
In Ethiopia, you are never far from the maddening crowd.
