It’s not called ‘darkest Africa’ for nothing.
By Evan Haussmann.
Why fit spotlights?
Adding a set of spots to your 4×4 will pull back the curtains to reveal roadside threats. They’re a bit like crystal balls, only in chrome. Before you rush out and buy the biggest, baddest stadium lights you can bolt to the bull bar, plan ahead.
Where should you mount your lights? Spots are most commonly attached to a vehicle’s bull bar or bumper and should be mounted far back for added protection. Some expedition vehicles have lights on the roof or roof rack. It is illegal to mount lights above the height of the bonnet and they are usually mounted on a removable bar. Spotlights should be on the most solid base possible, as vibration reduces bulb life.
It’s illegal to drive with lights rated at over 55W. These are strictly for off-road use.
Bigger is better
The reflector, the silver dish behind the bulb, collects and projects the light. A rule of thumb in the world of spotlights is the bigger the reflector, the more light it is able to collect.
Lenses shape and control the beams. Some spots have variable lenses or interchangeable covers to shape the light for different applications.
Beam patterns
A driving light pattern increases the range of the stock lights and allows for higher night-time cruis- ing speeds. The lenses are rippled and disperse the light over a wider area.
Pencil beams are long and nar- row. They can light up a kilometre or more ahead. The reflectors are deep and lenses clear, and they complement a set of driving lights or floods.
Floods are wide-beam config- urations that illuminate the sides of the road and a few hundred metres ahead.
Fog lights are designed with a low angle beam to light up the road surface without reflecting off rain or mist.
Configurations
How you configure the lights depends on the type of terrain you will be covering, weather and driving conditions. Consider a combination of beam patterns before buying your spotlights.
Bulb types
Halogen bulbs are the most com- mon and work on the same prin- ciple as tungsten bulbs. They operate at a high temperature, so remove any covers beforehand.
Over the last few years, you would’venoticed the bluish tint emitted by the lights on more expensive cars’ headlights. These are high- intensity discharge or HID xenon lights. HIDs use up to 40 per cent less power than halogens and the brightness of a 35W HID is almost three times that of a 55/60 W halogen bulb.
LED bulbs are the least power hungry of all bulb types. They are compact, run at low temperatures and are vibration and shock resistant. This technology has made major leaps in the last few years. But as with all new tech- nology, the prices can be very high for a good-quality
product.
Power?
High wattage (ratings range from 55W to 210W) is not necessarily an indication of the power of a unit. Some are made very effec- tive through the design of reflec- tors and lenses. It doesn’t hurt to compare units before deciding and make sure your alternator and wiring can handle the added load. If you’re running fridges and winches, consider a dual-battery system (see Getaway,
November 2010).
