Cape Town is lucky to have plenty of wildlife areas which are so easy to get to, from the Table Mountain National Park in the heart of the city to the Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area in the Cederberg. Last weekend I travelled in the opposite direction and headed for the De Hoop Nature Reserve in the Overberg. A three-and-a-half-hour drive from Cape Town, the reserve sits in a unique position, straddling the dunes and reaching into the ocean as the De Hoop Marine Protected Area and into the veld, preserving the indigenous fynbos of the Cape Floral Region.
Apart from the peace and quiet one can enjoy in such a beautiful place, De Hoop is lots of fun for active holidaymakers. There are excellent hiking and mountain biking trails, and a tennis court if that’s your game. It’s also home of the famous five-day Whale Trail.
The De Hoop Collection has now taken over accommodation in De Hoop from Cape Nature and there is accommodation to cater to everyone’s needs. The Opstal area of De Hoop has camping and caravan sites, small self-catering cottages in the De Hoop Village, Vlei Rondawels which accommodate two people, and then a few upmarket choices for catered or self-catering stays in the form of the Opstal Manor House, Shearing Studio and Stable Suite. Across the vlei from the Opstal area are the larger, more private houses, which were the original buildings of one of the De Hoop farms. These include the Melkkamer Manor House, Vlei Cottage and Foreman’s Cottage.
Our stay at the Melkamer Vlei Cottage was a trip back in time. The original house, built in 1872, has been refurbished inside, but not electrified. Each room has quaint paraffin lamps to be lit when the sun starts to set. Every meal can’t help being that much more special, when enjoyed by lamp light with a good glass of wine.
While there is no electricity, you certainly don’t have to live without some other mod-cons, and the oven, stove, fridge, freezer and geyser are all fuelled with gas. An outside braai area with picnic table and bench is a wonderful place from which to listen to the crackle of the fire, the flights of pelicans and watch the sky turn from azure to dusty purple. The Melkamer has four bedrooms, which all sleep two, either in double or twin beds.
The afternoon sun streams in through the large wooden shutters and curling up with a good book and hot chocolate is always a tempting option. But there were things on our agenda: someone had to learn to ride a bike. Yes, in all 27 years of my life I had never managed to go further than 100 metres on a bicycle (in a very, very wobbly line) and the idea filled me with both excitement and dread.
We were given two mountain bikes with our accommodation (you can reserve them when you make your booking). I eyed the red contraption with not a little distrust. My partner decided that we best start on the grass and so, to the hooting of coots which I’m sure was directed at me, I made my first pedal pushes, promptly catching my jeans on the spiky things (yes, I had not really come prepared with Lycra). But soon, Simon was letting go of my seat and I was shrieking and heading into the fynbos (not a good thing when you’re in a reserve that prides itself in in protecting the stuff).
After just one or two more attempts, I seemed to get the hang of it – though gearing was still a mystery – so we were off to try out the gravel roads. Unfortunately, in my first few minutes a small boy also riding a bike, crossed my path. I lost my balance and almost took him out by veering wildly into his back wheel. Luckily, he was a much more experienced cyclist than me and he managed to miss me, softly saying, “It’s okay,” at my breathless apologies and he scooted off.
Things improved quickly and soon I was proudly pedaling for at least a minute without stopping. I did have to be reminded to try to look up and at the scenery, but this inevitably landed me in the bushes again. For a more experienced rider, who can actually take their eyes off the road and handlebars, De Hoop provides wonderful views of the fynbos, vlei and plenty antelope. I found the washboard ruts on the gravel road rather unkind to my derriere though – I’m sure real mountain bikers will come prepared with padding, Lycra and perhaps even their own bikes with better suspension.
After my jaunt (if you can call it that) along the road, I was chuffed with my three-kilometre ride. Chuffed, but exhausted – this pedalling is quite tiring to those unused to the idea. After a hot shower, I sank into my soft bed, finally able to curl up with that book and hot chocolate. While De Hoop has plenty more to offer – guided marine walks, guided mountain bike trails, a very good restaurant and more, I was quite content at that point to relax, listen to the coots (now cheering me on) and think about what to put on the braai that evening.
Photos: Simon Capstick-Dale and De Hoop Collection.
To book your stay in De Hoop Nature Reserve, visit the Getaway Accommodation Page.
