I’m often hassled by friends and relatives who want tip offs on accommodation in gorgeous settings, usually cheap and close-ish to home. Others want ammunition for their daydreams and prod me for descriptions of lavish locations and opulent hotel rooms.
Fair enough, much of my work life is spent bouncing from hotel to B&B and self-catering lodge. On top of the places I stay for my feature assignments, I write half of the Quick Escapes section each month, so you could say I’ve had some experience in sleeping out.
The first thing I specify when making a recommendation is that my tastes may lean a little to the left of five-star. My cousin crinkled her nose in horror when I suggested some lovely rural venues, sans electricity. For me a fireplace and candlelight is bliss and real mark of having escaped the city, but it’s a little rustic for some.
I also prefer quiet and I’m not big on security, even when I’m staying alone. I find electric fences and burglar bars stifling and will always opt for a remote place where I can leave the doors and windows wide open.
With that in mind, these venues were my personal favourites for 2009:
Dream Lodge, Magaliesberg
Dream Lodge is an aptly named escape for couples. As the sun sets on the Magaliesberg mountains a magical light envelopes the Agama Cottage on the hillside, snug, safe and far from the daily grind. There is no electricity, but small indents have been built around the interior of the cottage for tea-lights, providing a romantic ambiance. There is a large bath stocked with bubble bath and incense and a seating area with a large fireplace. Gecko Cottage, meanwhile, is surrounded by acacia bush and has an outside gazebo-type structure with plump cushions.
A delicious supper of prawns or chicken, rice and seasonal vegetables is laid out for you on an outdoor table (other diets are also catered for). Staff arrive like fairies in the morning take away your dirty dishes and replace them with a freshly laid out health breakfast.
Contact: Cell 082-620-6369, e-mail [email protected], web www.dreamlodge.co.za.
Kokopelli Farm Cottage, Magaliesberg
This secluded wood cabin is the perfect sanctuary for a weekend of hermiting, walking and contemplating the beauty of the Magaliesberg on the horizon. The visitors’ book says it all. Guests write in detail about the restorative qualities of the place, about how months of urban angst have been obliterated by a couple of days of tranquility. Aside from acres of unspoiled veld, bush and berg, the farm boasts ancient stone circles and ruins and there are hammocks dotted along the walking routes. Bring your own goods for self-catering – there are gas appliances (no electricity), a fireplace and a braai area. Plenty of firewood is stored under the cottage. Children are welcome and so are your pets. There’s a dam for swimming, you can bring your mountain bike and pick organic vegetables to eat during your stay. Horse riding is available on a neighboring farm.
Contact: Cell 071-858-4422, e-mail [email protected], web www.kokopelli.co.za.
River Stills, Groot Marico
Four, rustic self-catering cottages close to Groot Marico River’s edge are the perfect antidote to stress and fatigue. Set a good distance apart from one another the emphasis is on long stretches of silence, calm and reconnecting with nature. Three of the cottages sleep four and one smaller cottage sleeps two. All come with fireplaces, braai areas and an ample stoep and you’re welcome to pick and choose from the proliferation of herbs growing on the property. You can go fishing or canoeing on the river and older kids will love the swing over the river. River Stills is perfectly positioned for birding and day walks. More than 360 bird species have been recorded in the area.
Contact: Tel 014-503-0085, cell 083-272-2958, e-mail [email protected], web www.riverstill.co.za.
Fairview Estates, Fouriesburg
The working farm is nestled in a valley surrounded by the purple-tinged Maloti Mountains close to the Free State-Lesotho border. It’s a fairytale-land for fishermen, with four dams and a stream stocked with trout. There are long walks and mountain biking trails, or languish in the comfort of one of three guesthouses on the farm.
For a start, there’s the Twin Towers – a four-storey dwelling in a pair of converted grain silos. Its postbox-red doors and balcony give it the appearance of Rapunzel’s tower. But once inside, a funky mix of African fabrics, dollied-up farm furniture and retro accessories make you feel as if you have stepped into the pages of a decor magazine.
A more conventional option is De Rust, the farm’s original homestead. It’s the most suitable option if you have young children, as there aren’t steep stairs.
The third option is the Damn Caravan, perched on the edge of its own willow-lined fishing dam. From the outside, the accommodation fulfils the promise of its name – it’s a mobile home clad with thin branches. Inside, however, it’s like no caravan you’ve seen before. Red velvet curtains adorn the bedroom windows and plush, fake-fur throws cover the beds. There are heavily framed, classical prints and a beautiful art-deco couch in the sitting room.
Contact: Cell 082-377-5222, e-mail [email protected], web www.fairviewestates.co.za.
Apple Blossom Cottage, Dullstroom
The tweep-tweep of kassina frogs lulls you to sleep after a day of fishing and fun at Apple Blossom Cottage. The spacious farmhouse sleeps eight in two en suite double rooms and two twin rooms with an adjoining bathroom. The open-plan lounge and kitchen is warmed by a crackling hearth and there are knee rugs for extra warmth against the evening chill. The wide stoep offers views of the orchard and dam and there’s a large brick braaiplace and seating for outdoor meals. Fishermen can choose between two dams on the property and there are hiking and mountain bike trails close by. It’s on the same road as the Bird of Prey centre and six kilometres from Highland Gate Golf Estate.
Contact: Dullstroom Reservations: Tel 013-254-0254, e-mail [email protected], web www.dullstroom.biz.
