Winter is a great time to getaway and enjoy the tranquility traveling out of season affords. With the Overberg a mere hour’s drive from Cape Town (my new home), I’ve begun discovering a veritable treasure chest of its gems. Plus, if you love of the ocean, this Atlantic jewel is sure to steal your heart.
Situated between Stanford (check out Sarah Duff’s top 12 things to do in Stanford) and Gansbaai, De Kelders holds a rugged ‘cavernous’ charm and some of the most staggering views I’ve ever seen. It’s the perfect place to whale watch, walk, cycle, swim or clamber through caves. If you’re an adrenalin junkie, you can nip down the road and go hang out with the great white sharks (alternatively, head out to Seal Island on a five-day great white adventure). Personally, I’m more inclined to a spot of horse riding or wine tasting or spa treatment, all of which can be found close by.
Cliff Lodge at De Kelders
As I dip down a hill on the R43, mist envelopes me. Low hanging cloud swirls like Scottish fog whiting out the blazing sunset I was banking on. However, by the time I’ve turned into De Kelders and begun driving along the craggy edge, I’m starting to feel a rush of excitment. Suddenly the familiar fynbos morphs into a mysterious foreign landscape, magically teleporting me to the Isle of Skye (sans the drudgery of airport security, visas and long cramped flights). My mood lifts … unlike the clouds.
Nico warmly ushers me through the front door of Cliff Lodge, its interior is bright and welcoming and leads me up a flight of stairs to my room. I’m already taken by the art adorning the walls and in this weird half light, it feels as if I’m climbing towards the luxury cabin of a cruise ship. He opens the door with a flourish and shows me around. The suite is elegant and spacious: a Manhattan penthouse transposed on a rocky ledge overlooking the Atlantic. I sink onto the four poster bed, the mist taking on a positively romantic hue as I gaze out at the swell sneaking through the fog. What an idyllic place for a honeymoon, romantic weekend or even a rejuvenating getaway to pamper yourself!
The Ocean Suite is the chic cherry on top of Gideon and Gill’s award-winning haven (with a further four rooms equally stylish, thoughtfully appointed and nautically named). There’s a telescope for whale viewing, flat screen TV and DVD player and even a Nespreso machine (in case of midnight emergencies) in the fully stocked mini-bar. Though I soon discover both Nico and Gideon are exacting baristas who pride themselves on the quality of their cappuccinos. As someone who considers herself a caffeine snob, I can honestly say these men know to make good coffee! I feel instantly at home and relaxed.
The massive balcony showcases the breathtaking view – an immense expanse of sea seems to stretch all the way to Cape Point. Looking out it’s jagged rock, crashing waves and mile after mile of blue fathoms which, in whale season, comes alive with mating couples and later, frolicking mothers and calves. You can charter a boat for a closer look, or just be blown away by how much you can see from this lofty vantage point.
Waking refreshed, soothed by the murmuring lullaby of the ocean, I admire the pearl moon lingering high in the pastel pink sky. The mist has lifted to reveal a magnificent vista of dawn and I’m awed by the epic beauty of this place as the light paints watercolours across the heavens. An inspiring start to the day – I wish I was a painter to capture this.
And it only gets better: downstairs a delicious array of cereals, fruit, yogurt and freshly baked goodies greet me along with the aromatic perfume of freshly-expressed coffee. Gideon serves me one of the best flat whites I’ve ever sipped as I sit soaking up the sunshine. Gill’s freshly juiced watermelon and mint is a revitalizing tonic … and then there’s still a litany of delicious cooked delicacies to choose from. I’m spoilt for choice – I’d return on the strength of a Cliff Lodge breakfast alone – not to mention their decadent hot chocolate. Don’t get me started.
This part of the Overberg is stunning at any time but winter’s powerfully beguiling with her wild storms and raging seas. There’s nothing better than being curled up inside, with a glass of fine red wine, a good book and watching heavy swell crash against the rocks below. In fact, I’m such a devoted wave watcher that after the sumptuous smorgasbord breakfast, I skip down to Die Stal to see the ocean shatter itself into white foam splitters, revealing brief rainbows in the spume. Later, I’m lucky enough to be included in the local Kelp Kult and taken for a bracing swim in the nearby Walker Bay Reserve. Riding seaweed seahorses on the back of a rip, my spirit soars with sheer sensory delight of sea, sunshine and salt. It’s a lot like being a mermaid or Poseidon’s queen.
It’s significant to note most Cliff Lodge guests reside abroad and return – at least once, if not once a year. Glowing feedback spread by satisfied visitors and consistently excellent reviews on Tripadvisor ensure this glamorous retreat is fully booked throughout the high season. Both Gill and Gideon are remarkable hosts: warm, accommodating and perfectly professional. And they keep exceeding expectations. For the first time since moving to my little farm sanctuary, I feel reluctant to return home. Spend one night here and you’ll understand why: it’s positively heavenly!
Winter special at Cliff Lodge
From now until the end of July, Cliff Lodge is running a winter special: 10% discount for a one-night stay; 20% off if you stay for two nights and a glorious stay for four nights, pay for three (closed from June 15 to July 15). Treat yourself to the Ocean Suite: you’ll be delighted you did!
Tel 028-384-0983, email [email protected], www.clifflodge.co.za or book a stay at Cliff Lodge, De Kelders, here.