A three-night stay at Nyamepi Campsite in the Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe dished up all the excitement I’d hoped for. Hippos grazing in the camp, elephants at every turn, and hyenas threatening to steal my braai meat. Mana Pools is an unfenced wilderness area so staying safe is your responsibility. I’ve listed a few basic ground rules to ensure a safe and exciting Mana Pools experience.
Creatures of the night
A nearby rustling of leaves sent me flying off my chair. Alone and paranoid I crept around the tent and shone my torch in the direction of the noise. At first, I thought the massive beast two meters away was an elephant, but once my eyes adjusted I could make out the short legs and barrel body of a hippo. I stood motionless – too scared and transfixed even to blink. It was the closest I’d been to one and I was alarmed, not only by its proximity but by its size. The hippo munched away calmly, clearly unperturbed by my quivering presence, or the hyenas encroaching on my camp.
At first I’d worried that Nyampi Campsite – the main camping area in the Mana Pools National Park – wouldn’t be exciting. I’d heard stories of lion encounters at the smaller, more remote campsites and like a kid with eyes too big for their stomach, I wanted as much action as I could get. The hippo made me reconsider. Standing next to the hippo, surrounded by hyenas, I was grateful for the other campers and the light of their fires. It was my first time in an unfenced wilderness area after all – lions and lonely nights might have proved too much.
Nyamepi Campsite
Nyamepi is not only relatively safe but also exceptionally beautiful. Huge trees bow over every site, offering much needed shade and plenty of green. If you get a spot on the water’s edge, you’ll open your eyes to a blushing pink sun rising over the Zambezi. It’s a 10-minute drive from the park office (convenient for making payment and buying firewood) and a five-minute drive from Mana Mouth – a great spot for game viewing and tiger fishing. Between early morning and late afternoon game drives, it’s a pleasure to just sit at the campsite, enjoying the Zambezi’s interminable flow and changing colours. I didn’t see any big cats but I was more than satisfied with the elephants, hippos, buffaloes and hyenas that frequented the camp. With each passing beast, I grew more amazed that unfenced wilderness areas are allowed to exist. Human beings can be so terribly sensible and mingling with dangerous wildlife, many would argue, is not terribly sensible. Thankfully we get to make up our own minds and assume responsibility for our own safety, but that means acting responsibly. Don’t be silly – follow a few basic ground rules to ensure a safe and exciting Mana Pools experience.
Eight basic rules at Mana Pools National Park
1. Don’t be fooled into thinking the hippos are friendly. They may look like huggable grass eaters but they are responsible for more human fatalities in Africa than any other large animal. Keep your distance!
2. Don’t leave your food or anything lightweight lying around. The baboons aren’t shy and will grab anything they find appealing (they ran off with my hand brush).
3. Don’t take any fruit. I had to get rid of all mine before entering the park as no fruit is allowed inside. Their sweet smell attracts unwanted attention.
4. Dispose of your rubbish or put it onto your vehicle’s roof to keep the scavengers at bay.
5. Don’t wrap anything outside your tent in black bags – the baboons will think its leftovers. I kept my charcoal in a black bag and had it ripped apart twice.
6. Don’t wait until the dead of night to take a shower. The walk to the bathrooms might seem trivial but at night 200 m can be daunting and potentially dangerous. Mana hyenas aren’t fussed by waving torches, stomping of feet or loud shouting. They’re unpredictable so best stick to your camp once the crickets come out. Hippos don’t move much so they are easily overlooked in the dark. Bumping into one without warning could be deadly.
7. Don’t rely on your head torch. It’s pitch dark at night and head torches aren’t strong enough to properly illuminate one’s surroundings. Take a strong hand torch and do a thorough scan around your campsite at regular intervals. It’s best to know what’s out there so you aren’t caught unaware.
8. Don’t skimp on firewood. It costs $5 a bundle at the park office and its better to get one too many than one too few. There is nothing fun about a fireless campsite when there are wild beasts about.
Other handy tips
1. Book in advance. Mana Pools is becoming increasingly popular so if you want to get a space in one of the more remote campsites, you need to plan ahead.
2. You have to sign into the Mana Pools National Park before 15h00 so don’t be late.
3. Sometimes it’s worthwhile being pushy. The central reservations office in Harare was quick to assign me a less-that-ideal site (far from the water’s edge), insisting that nothing else was available. I managed to wangle a sweet spot overlooking the river thanks to an obliging park official and some friendly negotiation.
Contact
Mana Pools National Park Central Reservations Office in Harare
Tel +263 4 706077/8
Email [email protected]
Zimbabwe, despite its pitfalls, is a great tourist destination. Read more about its scenic diversity, and positive impressions of a first timer’s visit to the country.
Click here for accommodation at Mana Pools, Zimbabwe.
