We squinted our eyes as we made our way up a steep gravel road towards a kopjie as large drops of rain hit us at every angle. It eventually eased off as we pulled up alongside the kopjie. Our guide, Dimitra, enthusiastically jumped off the vehicle and smiled. She handed me a pan, the other guest a gas burner and someone else a fold-up table. She hoisted a coolerbox onto her shoulder and called out to us to follow her up this small mountain. ‘Bush pancakes for breakfast!’ she exclaimed as we reached the top after much scrambling.
That was our first morning game drive at the Shamwari Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape. We found ourselves on a rugged kopjie, looking out onto 25 000 hectares of pristine private bushveld, eating cinnamon and syrup pancakes made there and then. What a treat!
Earlier that morning we’d been watching a pride of lions set up a hunt in the misty washed-out landscape. It looked more like a painting, a moody impressionist’s watercolour perhaps. The rain had brought out the earthy smell that the ground produces after the raindrops break the dry soil. The veld was fresh, sparkling with raindrops hanging off the blades of grass. The lions had given up trying to hunt after their potential meal had pranced off into the distance. We followed them for a while before turning off towards the kopjie.
I asked Dimtra if she had a best sighting and she replied saying that every sighting was unique and so different that it was hard to choose a ‘favourite’. She mentioned that seeing a zebra sitting on another zebra that was lying down was one of her most peculiar sightings. I also asked her why she’d given up her career as an architect and chosen a rather solitary life out in the bush.
‘It feeds my soul’ she replied, ‘It’s not that I want to be out here, I need to be out here’.
We had one of our best black rhino sightings on one long, leisurely afternoon game drive. We also stumbled upon unusual creatures such as brown hyena, a bat-eared fox and a spring hare.
I had never been to a game reserve in the Eastern Cape. Being a Lowveld bush ‘gal’ myself, I had no idea what to expect. The grasslands are dotted with plains game, the thick bush in the mountain valleys are home to relaxed black rhino and the elusive leopard. Best of all, there’s something to make everyone happy, no matter what you’re looking for.
We stayed at Long Lee Manor. It’s a large Edwardian homestead looking out over the Bushman’s River. The main part of the house is steeped in pioneer history as it was built by a wagon-wheel maker who made some money off the passersby. It’s a little like the Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town only that it’s in the bush – it’s the pink lady of the Eastern Cape.
Shamwari Game Reserve
Why I’d recommend it:
Shamwari is a relatively short detour if you’re on the Garden Route and only 45 minutes from Port Elizabeth. It’s easily accessible as there are daily flights from Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban. It’s malaria-free and is host to much more than just the Big Five. The sightings we had were top class.
Five of South Africa’s seven biomes are found on Shamwari. They have two unique Born Free Sanctuaries on the property, they are associated with the Wilderness Foundation and they have one of the hottest anti-poaching units in the country. They also run two of their game drive vehicles on bio fuel.
My best bits:
Our black rhino sighting was one of my best ever sightings. Pancakes in the bush were also a hit!
If you’re booking at Long Lee Manor, ask about their new suites at the bottom of the terrace – they are most tastefully decorated and spacious.
Activities and facilities:
Game drives and game walks, relaxations retreats (spas), Born Free Foundation and wedding facilities.
Accommodation:
Shamwari has seven lodges:
Long Lee Manor – Edwardian homestead, a more sophisticated and colonial bush experience. It accommodates 38 guests in 15 elegant en-suite rooms and three luxury suites.
Eagles Crag Lodge – Luxury thatch suites with a contemporary African feel with a private plunge pool in each suite. It would suit corporate groups.
Riverdene Lodge – A place for you to bring your family to the bush. Definitely not for honeymooners but your kids will have the best experience in the bush, looked after by their friendly staff.
Bayethe Lodge – a funky, fun and bright luxury tented camp. Each tent is air-conditioned and has an en-suite bathroom, outside shower, private plunge pool and viewing deck.
Sirili Lodge – my personal favourite. It’s an environmentally-friendly private thatch designed villa with a spacious deck overlooking the Bushman’s River. It has five suites and sleeps a maximum of 10 guests.
Lobengula Lodge – A truly classical African experience, two of the five luxury suites have private plunge pools whilst the remaining three suites are situated adjacent to the large swimming pool.
Bushmans River Lodge – a Victorian homestead, this four-bedroom lodge is ideal for small groups of friends or couples and offers a very private experience.
How to get there:
Lobengula Lodge
Follow the N2 out of Port Elizabeth until you reach the N2 / N10 cross over. Follow the N10 to Paterson/Cradock bypassing Paterson. Travel for 11 km from Paterson until you reach the Alicedale turn-off. Turn right at the Lobengula Lodge sign board and travel for a further 12 km on a gravel road. Turn right at the Shamwari Gate and follow the sign boards to Lobengula Lodge.
Eagles Crag Lodge and Bayethe Lodge
Follow the N2 out of Port Elizabeth heading towards Grahamstown bypassing the R342 turn-off. Continue along the N2 until you reach a sign board Eagles Crag and Baythe on the Sidbury road. Turn left on the gravel road and follow this road passing through the Kwantu gate until you reach a T-junction. At the T-junction follow the sign boards right to Bayethe and left to Eagles Crag.
Long Lee Manor, Riverdene Lodge, Bushman’s River Lodge and Sarili Lodge
Follow the N2 towards Grahamstown. Take the turn-off towards Paterson on the R342 and travel 7 km up the gravel road. Enter at the 1st gate for Riverdene, Bushmans River Lodge and Sarili Lodge. Enter at the 2nd gate for Long Lee Manor.
Rates:
High season: From R4#500 (Long Lee Manor) – R5#950 (Lobengula chief suite) a person a night sharing.
Low season: From R4#235 (Long Lee Manor) – R5#950 (Lobengula chief suite) a person a night sharing.
Rate inclusive of all meals, two games drives and selected beverages (premium brands not included), tourism levy and 14% Vat.
Contact: tel 041 407 1000, email [email protected], www.shamwarigroup.com
